Review: James Rowland's Bistro Nous

Bistro Nous is inventive, but it's deviled by poor attention to details

But then there was opa, a stiff, dried-out cake of fish topped with shavings of scallion and surrounded by greens. Steak au poivre frites has the requisite rich redness you crave. But it was tasked with elevating a loose cluster of frites that from French translated into fries ala IHOP: spongy, crude, undercooked, under-salted.

Rowland has lofty if quirky ambitions for his bistro. He sees Bistro Nous evolving into a hotel restaurant in a strip mall serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night snacks. He could invent suburban room service. "James Rowland will disappear, and Bistro will disappear. It'll just be kind of like nous," he says of it.

It's ripe for a neighborhood following with word-of-mouth ambiance. It's cozy, comfortable and engaging. But the details have to be rewired before the staying power can be turned on. Otherwise it'll just be clean white tablecloths twisting in the wind.

James Rowland breathes life into another restaurant concept.
tom jenkins
James Rowland breathes life into another restaurant concept.

Location Info

Map

James Rowland's Bistro Nous

18352 N. Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75287

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Carrollton/ Farmers Branch

Details

Ceviche $14
Sportsman's plate $16
Caesar wedge $7
Pineapple salad $6
Szechuan noodles $10
Stir fry beef $19
Steak frites $38
Angel hair $19
Opa $22

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More About

18352 North Dallas Parkway at the northeast corner of Frankford Road and the Tollway, 972-931-7800. Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday and 5:30-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday. $$-$$$

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