By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
It is the attempts to make the concept approachable that stumble. The iceberg wedge, served on a chilled plate littered with yellow and red teardrop tomatoes, candied pecans and a few applewood-smoked bacon chips, was dressed in a thin Roquefort dressing with few cheese crumbles. You could easily sex up this steakhouse cliché by covering it with sizzling—instead of chilled—bacon crumbles, creating not only lusty savor but compelling textural tension.
Hot bacon works well in the mac & cheese (fast becoming the iceberg wedge of steakhouse sides, or as they are classified at Ounce, accessories), adding grit to the creamy rich yellow cheese clinging to the elbow macaroni. Caesar salad, with crisp roasted red pepper pesto crostini covered with a mesh of melted Parmesan, was excessively salted and void of any discernible anchovy and lemon. Australian barramundi—a fish similar to sea bass—in smoked tomato coulis and topped with fried leeks was dredged in a coating that turned pasty on the plate.
Better was the lime cheesecake, a hulking wedge with a thick craggy graham cracker crust—crisp as a dry twig—girding citrus-sharpened custard.
14866 Montfort Drive
Dallas, TX 75254-7518
Region: North Dallas
Ounce is a well-polished entrant into Dallas steakhouse lore with more than a few mediocrities sprinkled through its grand accomplishments that, once teased out, are worth their price. In fact, everyone should taste Akaushi beef at least once—if not for the taste, then for the vegan-related schadenfreude.
14866 Montfort Drive, Addison, 972-503-5800. Open 4-11 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-12 a.m. Friday and Saturday. $$$$