Review: Moroccan Lounge Medina Oven & Wine Bar

Comments (0) By Mark Stuertz Thursday, May 22 2008

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Tom Jenkins

Za'atar grilled lamb chops: exhibit A in why vegans are wrong

Location Info

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Medina Oven & Wine Bar

2304 Victory Park Lane, LFT Victory Park
Dallas, TX 75219-7646

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

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Details

Appetizer platter $15

Grilled chicken sandwich $8

Lamb sausage pizza $13

Chicken brochette $7

Spinach phyllo $7

Sea bass tagine $23

Lamb chops $20

Crème brûlée $7

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Though hardly Moroccan, you can finish with the orange blossom crème brûlée, a dish with a slightly lumpy custard and a crisped sugar cap that is regrettably cold instead of warm.

It's been a long time since Dallas has had Moroccan served with such aplomb. Medina is clean and urban slick, mercifully subdued (a victory for Victory). Food is meticulous and stirring, mostly, with seasonings that betray their exuberant sophistication with subtlety. Thus, Medina has no need of undulating navels.

2304 Victory Park Lane, 214-979-0003. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday noon-11 p.m. Saturday, noon-10 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$