Faking It

Wild sockeye salmon, medium rare, pink and almost viscous to the eye, has a slightly crisped sear veneer and an indistinct fruit essence on the finish. It is, without a doubt, one of the most distinctive pieces of fish of any species in recent memory: rich, clean and pleasantly abrupt in its savor.

Of course, a Texas urban outpost must offer prime steak. Prime rib eye is lush and rich, not extraordinarily so, but it is silken in its tenderness nonetheless. Juices flow like drain water; fat globules are relegated to the edges.

Lamb chops are extraordinary, juicy and tasty with distinct sweetness. They are as rich as a steak and tender as a scallop. A long sprig of rosemary is laid over the surface. But a side of home fries, sprigs of sweet potato mixed with conventional potato and served in a paper cone, is greasy.

Mmm—stacked foods are our favorites. Waitresses too.
Steve Satterwhite
Mmm—stacked foods are our favorites. Waitresses too.

Location Info


Loft 610 Urban Restaurant & Lounge

5760 State Highway 121, #175
Plano, TX 75024

Category: Restaurant > Eclectic

Region: Plano


Tuna rolls $11

Texwedge $14

Texas ceviche $9

Caesar $8

Caprese $8

Prime rib French dip $17

Texas quail $15

Loft fries $8

Prime rib eye $44

Lamb chops $28

Salmon $32

Crème brûlée $8

Bread pudding $9

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For dessert, there's bread pudding drooling with melted white chocolate, tight and tasty, moist and relaxing. There's crème brûlée with Grand Marnier that's merely adequate.

Loft 610 is well-trimmed with a fake urban ambience that somehow fails to strain credulity. Its menu can be odd but rarely distractingly so. And you can coax some exceptionally well-tempered flavors out of it.

5760 State Highway 121 in Granite Park, No. 175, Plano, 972-377-2500. Open 11 a.m.-midnight Monday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Thursday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday, 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Saturday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. $$$-$$$$

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