By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Turn to their lamb chop entrée, however, for a true expression of Vasconcelos' French-Mexican concept. Once again, a glance at the menu is enough to raise some consternation. Yes, it starts with the usual delicate meat in rosemary jus (the kind of thing you find at any continental restaurant). But the chef teams this not-very-resilient chop with raspy chorizo, a spread of black beans and a few plantain slices. Surely this bold surge of New World flavors will obliterate quaint Mediterranean lamb, right?
Ah, but they make it flow somehow, from the intensity of Mexican cured meat to creamy mustiness to rich and gamy, with the pine needle-tinged rosemary bridging the gaps.
So forgive Soley! if servers hover and pester and solicit your approval with every course. These are trying times for destinations trying to compel $28 of dwindling credit from guests for an entrée. Let them off the hook when they mess up, such as the evening a waiter mentioned happy hour prices—sending me into a fugue state broken moments later by an "I was just told that's only at the bar" apology.
Ceviche (two) $16
Chile en Nogada $10
L'Agneau (lamb chops with chorizo) $28
Le Fletan a la Veracruz (Halibut with Veracruzana sauce) $28
Pollo al guajillo $24
OK, maybe giving false hope is beyond pardon. I'm not a lawyer.
But I'm even willing to let them slide for the annoying, gratuitous exclamation attached to their name, the one wasting minutes of my day repeatedly canceling spell-check warnings.
If the market continues its slide, those crowds filling modestly priced restaurants will grow and Soley!—already down to half-empty (sorry, half-full) on a recent Saturday night, may have to respond accordingly.
And so my friend frets over Soley's future. What happens, he wonders, if they start to shed some of the fineries and appeal to the less-discerning Tuesday night crowd?
2405 N. Henderson Ave., 214-485-1302. Open 5-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. $$$-$$$$