Go Fish Ocean Club

The waiters chatter. Too bad the food doesn't exactly sing.

Comments (0) By Dave Faries Thursday, Oct 23 2008

But there's very little foreground to this dish. The crab topping is, once again, creamy, and the fish all very demure.

Looking for something with a little more heft, my dinner companion one evening settled on filet mignon. I know, steak at a seafood joint—not worth it, right? True enough, but the kitchen managed to season the cut with surprising discretion: a few flakes of salt and a gentle waft of pepper.

Brandon Thibodeaux

The chef runs a tight ship at Go Fish Ocean Club, but the waitstaff's lengthy monologues may set you adrift.

Location Info

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Go Fish Ocean Club

5301 Alpha Road
Dallas, TX 75240

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: North Dallas

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Details

Lobster bisque $8
Tuna tataki roll $14
Calamari $11
Rainbow tower $15
Crab cakes $25
Pecan-crusted salmon $28
Striped bass $27
Filet mignon $30

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Besides, it's on the menu, along with a 22-ounce "Cowgirl" rib eye bound to challenge just about any guy's manhood.

Go Fish has been open in their new location for just about six weeks. There are kinks to work out still. Before sitting down to dinner one evening, my friend ordered gin and tonic at the bar—good gin, flat tonic. To his credit, the bartender admitted their tonic was "not the best" and made something else without fuss. Waitstaff display the wine list and prod you for a decision before launching into their menu spiel and on one occasion, when I opted for a cocktail, our waiter took off, list in hand...without giving my guest a chance to order. Another time I arrived early and caught the chef up front, answering phones and jotting down reservations.

"You'll find me here before lunch, after lunch, before dinner, after dinner," she told me when I called up later. "I'm the last person to leave. I love it."

Her energy is evident, and many of the dishes, if not perfect, will stir some interest. Wish the same could be said of the opening orations.

5301 Alpha Road, 972-980-1919. Open Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30-10 p.m., Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30-11 p.m., Saturday 5:30-11 p.m., Sunday 5:30-10 p.m. $$$