Pescabar's Identity Crisis

Style and fusion overwhelm simpler Italian pleasures

So there it is: chopsticks, fish and chips, oysters Rockefeller and—on a Saturday evening—two big screens blaring college football. My table was split over the issue of semi-upscale restaurants doubling as sports bars. Clearly Pescabar strives to provide something for just about everyone. Lombardi's restaurants have a strange habit of searching, bouncing around between quite good and rather disappointing until settling on reliable, a quality defined by their customer base more than any other factor. Does anyone really care if they sacrifice little incidentals, such as ambience or theme, along the way?

They've etched the word "Italian" into windows and blather about crudo. But perhaps it's really just another fusion restaurant. Consider, for example, an entrée of roasted Scottish salmon sitting in Sicilian agrodolce studded with lentils. Impressive to look at, the pale pink meat surrounded by wine-dark sauce, it also deftly manipulates bold and delicate flavors. Rippled with streaks of fat, the fish almost melts on the tongue, falling into the paper-crisp skin. Flakes of sea salt well up in support—a masterpiece of cooking. Meanwhile the musty, earthy character of al dente lentils works to soften the piercing acidity of vinegar, sugar and red wine.

Staffers at Pescabar really, really want you to like their crudo, but the other stuff is somewhat less memorable.
Meredith L. Moore
Staffers at Pescabar really, really want you to like their crudo, but the other stuff is somewhat less memorable.

Location Info

Map

Pescabar

3699 McKinney Ave.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant > Brunch

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

Focaccia (lunch) $5.50

Oysters Rockefeller (lunch) $11

Fish & chips (lunch) $14

Raw oysters market price

Lobster bisque $9

Burrata caprese $12

Crabcakes $14

Crudo sampler $19

Lasagna $16

Roasted Scottish salmon $22

Closed Location

Only charred endive tossed on top of the salmon seems an afterthought, or maybe a reminder that Pescabar doesn't know quite where to stop, where to establish its boundaries. So, what the hell—go ahead and dig in with the chopsticks. There's nothing sacrosanct around here.

3699 McKinney Ave., 214-522-3888. Open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$
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