By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
"Takes two seconds," he said.
In the same amount of time, one could down Victor Tango's double-stack burger, two 3-ounce patties in a bun held between a thumb and forefinger. But resist the urge to wolf it, for this is an extraordinary little sandwich. The beef strides with great confidence, dripping, husky in flavor, masculine enough that nothing stands in its way; sautéed onions follow in the wake, lending a more down-to-earth finish to each bite. Now this—this is David McMillan.
He plans to add a few ounces of beef to the burger in the very near future. About 20 percent of the existing menu will also change. Gone, the basket of twisty bread dusted with crumbles of what tastes like an exceedingly sharp white cheddar and served with puckering green stuff thought to be an attempt at pesto. Also gone, crab Rangoon built around a decent filling smacking more of shellfish than cream cheese.
Perhaps with the revisions McMillan hopes to show off some of the finesse that drew acclaim for Nana and 62 Main. Maybe he'll ditch the one-note bar fare and distract inebriates from their twist-less cocktails long enough to earn a slurred "wow" or two.
Possibly even a figurative "to die for."
The restaurant side needs some time to work out the kinks. The bar staff must re-educate themselves in some of the basics. But the concept isn't that far off. Sharing stretches the idea of tapas and tasting menus to its more communal logic—the perfect thing for a gathering place.
And sliders—yes, the original greasy, gastrointestinal grenades have gone upscale for now. But it's still not worth diving on one, even to save a comrade
3001 N. Henderson Ave., 214-252-8595. Open 5:30 p.m.-2 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$-$$$