Suze

In a generic strip mall setting, the chefs shine

I don't know how else to describe Suze but informed and laidback. Smart casual means jacket and no tie, or something—so that's out. The word "neighborhood" misses the point. Sure, they fry up green tomatoes, an everyday recipe leftover from original owner Susie Priore's days, but dab this Southern classic in marinara—what trendier kitchens would call "tomatoes two ways." There's the rustic, cornmeal-style crunch of Dixie yielding to a striving acidic fruitiness, dusty Italian herbs and piquant shavings of cheese.

Chef-driven? Obviously. Yet consider my experience reserving a table that one evening. Or, better still, another visit when people at the next table repeatedly asked for "Gilbert" to stop by, only to be rebuffed because, the waiter explained, orders were still coming in and the chef couldn't possibly abandon his post. Food-driven—nay, food-obsessed—may be more accurate, if only they would keep their obsessive, salt-shaking mitts off Kobe beef.

No, Suze defies description. It's a restaurant above inside-/outside-the-loop snobbery. Well, maybe not above, as it makes no pretensions to be other than what it is, and what it is...um...damn it, despite a few creeping flaws and a cramped dining space that steadfastly shuns fashionable décor, the place is still good.

Laidback fried green tomatoes meet the busy world of inside-LBJ Dallas—and of Suze.
MEREDITH L. MOORE
Laidback fried green tomatoes meet the busy world of inside-LBJ Dallas—and of Suze.

Location Info

Map

Suze Restaurant

4345 W. NW Highway, 270
Dallas, TX 75220

Category: Restaurant > Greek

Region: Northwest Dallas

Details

Arugula salad $9

Fried green tomatoes $7

Kobe beef carpaccio $9

Hudson Valleyfoie gras $16

Veal pappardelle $19

Breast of chicken $22

Trout almondine $21

Flat-ironsalmon steak $22

Chocolate Nutella cake $9

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More About

Whether you know it or not.

4345 W. Northwest Highway, 214-350-6135. Open 5:30-10:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$$

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