You don't need a chef and steep prices to assemble something similar, but I'm tempted to applaud Foster and his crew for including one roughhouse tavern dish on the menu. On the other hand, it's rather unfortunate that mustard, two tiny cornichons and a side dish of corn and lentils steal the spotlight from $30-$50 entrees. All in all, Pyramid's cooking fits its new and dismal digs.

At least we had a congenial waiter on one visit. When I ordered the restaurant's cheapest wine, he presented the bottle soberly and unscrewed the cap with a dramatic flourish.

Yep—screw-top wine at Pyramid.

Chef J.W. Foster sitting in the not-so-pretty but oh-so-expensive, newly refurbished Pyramid.
Meredith L. Moore
Chef J.W. Foster sitting in the not-so-pretty but oh-so-expensive, newly refurbished Pyramid.

Location Info

Map

The Pyramid Restaurant and Bar

1717 N. Akard St.
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

Details

Crab cakes $14

Pork belly $12

Charcuterie $15

Striped bass $36

Lobster mac & cheese $32

Brussels sprouts with pancetta $8

Cheap wine $39

"Where is the wine from?" I asked. The list mentioned Clarksville, or something like that. And although fine Kentucky vintages probably come from screw-cap bottles...

"I don't know—I don't have my glasses," our waiter responded.

He toted the bottle over to a well-lit space, almost leaning into a table occupied by one lone guest sipping slushy red cocktails and returned after some time straining at the label. "California," he announced. "It's a nice wine."

If you strain long enough, you find something interesting in drab, wide open places.

1717 N. Akard St. (inside the Fairmont Hotel), 214-720-5249. Open 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 6-10 p.m. daily; 6:30-11 a.m. Monday-Friday, 7-11 a.m. Saturday-Sunday (breakfast). $$$$

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