In every concept restaurant, there's a point where one more decoration, one additional twist to the menu, nudges things into that territory where guests are no longer able to suspend disbelief, where masquerading as a working-class rube no longer seems like good, clean fun. Occasionally, restaurateurs who push too hard survive for a few months on fad appeal—consider, for example, the short-lived places selling cereal and real TV dinners. Pedack admits to flirting with the siren of concept restaurant doom. Fortunately, Blue Collar Bar is more of a throwback than a theme park.

If they can manage the vicissitudes of service...ah, but right now the place sways unsteadily not on the precipice of concept, but on that perilous divide between bar and bar-restaurant. On my first visit, in fact, staff members were gearing up for a ladies' night promotion, stuffing pink-trimmed T-shirts and such into gift bags while a video of "Rock Lobster" blared on a flat-screen. Less than an hour later, as I drove home, Jack FM played the same bit of lame pop nostalgia.

Now, most people are conditioned to heed basic cultural superstitions. Comets, broken mirrors, trolls—all at least draw comments like "careful, that's bad luck" or "hello, Mr. Rove." Even skeptics routinely step over sidewalk cracks and walk casually around propped ladders.

Diving right in, chef Rolf Hovik turns out working-class favorites from a second-rate kitchen.
Meredith L. Moore
Diving right in, chef Rolf Hovik turns out working-class favorites from a second-rate kitchen.

Location Info

Map

Blue Collar Bar

1924 N. Henderson Ave.
Dallas, TX 75206

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

Fried pickles $5.95

Fried cheese balls $6.95

Cobb salad $5.95

Fried bologna sandwich $7.95

Salisbury steak $7.95

Chicken-fried steak $9.95

Fried Twinkie $3.95

Closed Location

"Rock Lobster" twice in one evening...you understand my concerns.

1924 N. Henderson Ave., 214-826-2164. Open 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday-Friday, noon-2 a.m. Saturday, noon-midnight Sunday (kitchen closes at 10 p.m. daily). $-$$

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