Hibashi Teppan Grill and Sushi Bar

Super-sizing the sushi bar the Texas way

The flavor of this fishy porridge, however, fixes a calming, chowder-like base against sharp slivers of shallot—a rather nice effect.

Izumidai, by the way, is the Japanese term for tilapia. I believe it translates literally as "snapper" and often winds up as a kind of snapper substitute in lean times—which may explain the "izumidai snapper" listed on the restaurant's sushi menu. It's a rare disingenuous mark in a restaurant that clearly hopes to please sashimi purists on one hand while playing fusion with Japanese traditions on the other and serving up a spirited show on the side.

Guests on the teppan side holler and hoot through dinner as flames erupt, knives flash and bits of shrimp tumble through the air in an inexorable arc toward the chef's dimpled hat. It's about the only place in this expansive restaurant where revelry threatens to rock the house. The prairie that is Hibashi Teppan's dining room can appear hushed and empty even when 40 or 50 diners take their seats. But in a year of apparent retrenchment, when cozy neighborhood joints gain market advantage and diners turn to choice red meat over more expensive prime, it takes guts—and perhaps a bit of swagger—to open such a titanic space.

Some wins at this place, but mostly it's show: A chef entertains Hibashi Teppan's crowd.
Meredith L. Moore
Some wins at this place, but mostly it's show: A chef entertains Hibashi Teppan's crowd.

Location Info

Map

Hibashi Teppan Grill & Sushi Bar

13465 Inwood Road, #100
Dallas, TX 75244

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Carrollton/ Farmers Branch

Details

Soft-shell crab $10

Halibut ceviche $12

Hibashi heaven $12

Grilled Chilean sea bass $28

Steamed izumidai and baked eel $28

Stir-fried spicy pork $22

Maui roll $15

Santa Maria roll $12

Spicy tuna roll $7

Volcano roll $14

Nigiri (2) $4-$6.50

Sashimi (3) $6-8

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More About

They've done well to make the room feel intimate in places, vainglorious everywhere. Sohn's Asian roots and Lone Star brashness are obvious, both in the design and menu. But his kitchen needs to translate some of that Texas-Japanese-Korean-whatever babble into meaningful dishes.

13465 Inwood Road, Farmers Branch, 972-620-3474. Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m. Friday, noon-11 p.m. Saturday, 4-10 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$

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