Neighborhood Services

Goods things here are worth waiting for

But offbeat salads and service burps will not affect your overall experience—not when you dig into some of the city's best french fries, crisp, faintly bittersweet from deep caramelization and evenly seasoned. Or if you deign to order what Badovinus calls his weakest item, at least in terms of sales: an over-easy egg atop densely cured bacon and a handful of greens. Just brushed with vinaigrette, the latter steps into the Hollandaise role, bringing a light acidity and tangy brightness that plays well with the meat; butter-soaked toast sets an earthy base and the egg...it's difficult to translate the sheer beauty of oven-roasted protein so clean and even, the white easing smoothly and yoke pouring out like warm lava. And though the Old Bay-infused cocktail sauce is too bold for the chef's classic lobster fritters, the deep-fried balls of shellfish, root vegetables and homemade ricotta implode on the tongue. Even the bar menu's sausage flatbread reeks of fennel backed by a thick meatiness and countered by cooling dollops of cheese on a cracker crust.

Worth loitering in uncomfortable conditions for two hours on a Saturday night? That's a matter of personal self-worth. For those seduced by the aura of "cool" implied when people and press began blabbering about a place and crowds converge, it's definitely an experience they can flaunt for the next few weeks. Sooner or later, however, the buzz will wear off.

Those who wait—and those who return at that time—will be rewarded with one of the city's easiest, most satisfying meals. Simply put, Neighborhood Services is one impressive place.

5027 W. Lovers Lane, 214-350-5027.Open 6-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 6-11 p.m.Friday-Saturday. Bar opens at 5 p.m. $$-$$$
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