Cadillac Ranch Offers a Bumpy Ride for Diners

A A A Comments (0) By Dave Faries Thursday, Jan 29 2009

Still, while dining here is a perilous series of steep climbs and shrill, out of control plunges, the place has some merit. The fried oysters alone are worth one trip and the patio many more. While prone to amateurish mistakes, the wait staff works hard to make guests feel not only comfortable, but almost giddy. One evening, indeed, our 20-something server—who vanished some time before—stopped by with a solemn expression and said "my poor lost children, I've been neglecting you."

Now how can you frown at that?

There are bright spots atCadillac Ranch, but some dishes should be cast into the flames.

Location Info

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The Ranch at Las Colinas

857 John W. Carpenter Freeway
Irving, TX 75063

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Irving & Las Colinas

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Details

Skillet cornbread....$4.95 Fried Oysters(lunch)....$12.95 Jumbo lump crab cake....$6.95 Shrimp & crab campechana....$11.95 Fried chicken (lunch)....$13.95 Fried catfish....$13.95 Kobe flatiron steak....$34.95

Web extra: More photos of what Cadillac Ranch has to offer.

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Yes, there's a haze of "chain" about the place, but it's easily forgotten amongst the bustle and bracing faces. However, if I had to explain Cadillac Ranch in one dish, it would be the jumbo lump crab cake. An appetizer, it glows from the plate: big chunks of pearly meat, clinging in a mound so desperately, the edifice seems likely to collapse at the slightest touch; seared with a gentle touch, promising a surge of rich sweet shellfish and fresh ocean breeze; prepared without filler; dressed under and around, so as not to interfere with the meat itself. In your mind, all the crab cakes you've tried in the past gasp and back away. This, simply put, is an impressive, enticing, almost gorgeous presentation.

But again, looks deceive. The crab cake is an illusion, lacking any of the sophisticated, creamy sweetness, any reminder of the sea, anything but the misery leftover when a desirable object shatters—your brand new Xbox 360, for instance.

Go for the atmosphere and order carefully.

857 W. John Carpenter Freeway, Irving, 972-506-7262. Open 11 a.m-3 p.m., 5 p.m.-midnight Monday-Friday, 5 p.m.-midnight Saturday. $$-$$$