Simply put, it's a sauce without purpose. To spread it on cheese, well, that would be rather pointless. And to slather it on paper-thin veneers of cured meat...what's the point? The restaurant needs to provide crisp flatbread or spongy white slices to bring out the full beauty of this tapenade.

But they don't.

Oh, well—back to the question at hand. The ownership group includes a Campisi daughter, bringing (one assumes) decades of knowledge to the enterprise. They've put together a tremendous space—hip and comfortable at the same time, warmed by nostalgia but also as dark and mysterious as the hottest lounge. That "can't last" aura still hangs in the air, though.

Guess fedoras are too kitschy for line cooks; flatbread, however, is just “in the moment” enough to fit the contrived bar-restaurant vibe.
Sara Kerens
Guess fedoras are too kitschy for line cooks; flatbread, however, is just “in the moment” enough to fit the contrived bar-restaurant vibe.

Location Info

Map

Fedora Restaurant and Lounge

1722 Routh St., Ste. 126
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

Details

Meat and cheese tray $12

Caprese $10

Penne pasta $10

Lasagna-male $18

Osso bucco $38



Click on the photo for a look around Fedora and its kitchen in our slideshow.

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Why? Well, I'm judging it as a restaurant and, right now, the food service concept falls short of the room itself. Nothing poorly presented, mind you, no huge flaws in technique. It's just too everyday and forgettable to be worthy of the destination tag.

Should you drive from the north to check out Fedora's menu? Nah, not really—unless you have to try the city's newbie restaurants at least once. The bar, however, is pretty damn cool.

There it is.

1722 Routh St. (One Arts Plaza), 214-999-0009. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday, 5 p.m.-midnight Saturday (lunch service 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; bar menu starts at 2:30 p.m.; dinner begins at 5:30 p.m.). $$-$$$
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