Don't get me wrong. Few restaurants really pass muster when it comes to Tex-Mex and to Mexican cooking...few clean ones, anyway. Agave Azul is definitely spiffy—tile floors, tall windows (so you can gape at the wonders of Carrollton past), wall colors shaded toward aged adobe and a glassed-in bar. They dump Southwestern into just about everything. Even sides of asparagus come with a dusting of crumbled chorizo. Food service wavers somewhere between the mid- and upper reaches of the genre, at least measured to local standards, so it's well worth a visit or two. Keep in mind, however, that Dallas standards are relatively lax.

Of course, if they get a handle on flour tortilla preparation, things will pick up considerably. And they still pour those all-important tequila samplers, the tray lending an air of studious reflection, of global sophistication to what is really four or five shots of cantina juice.

A new look in Old Town Carrollton: Tequila and ornery old men stand out.
Sara Kerens
A new look in Old Town Carrollton: Tequila and ornery old men stand out.

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Agave Azul

1114 S. Elm St.
Carrollton, TX 75006

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Carrollton/ Farmers Branch

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Tamales $7.99 Veggie quesadillas $8.99 Jalapeņos stuffed with shrimp $9.99 Tacos al carbon $10.99 Seafood enchiladas $13.95 Pollo en mole $12.99 Favorito de papa $14.99
More photos of Agave Azul and its offerings in our slideshow here.
Agave Azul Mexican Kitchen and Tequila Bar 1114 S. Elm St., Carrollton. 972-242-4466. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$

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Yet bartenders don't show the steady touch of yore. Line cooks clearly falter when orders fly in, fast and furious. And you can't count on servers to rise above, say, the Denny's level, although better performance is not out of the question, really. I just haven't experienced it.

At least when asked, waitstaff willingly track down new silverware to replace the gobbed set. But you have to ask.

Go on a slow day and enjoy the authentic orneriness.

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