The Londoner serves up pub grub the way the Brits only wish they could

Comments (0) By Dave Faries Thursday, Jun 4 2009

They offer shepherd's pie, as well as other odds and ends. And it would be a shame to see this kind of character yield to the dull panacea of American-style pub fare. Although, to be fair, it's hard to imagine hip young folks diving into an order of beef pasty. Based on the rough Cornish miner's meal, this is an oversized pastry brimming with chunks of tender-enough meat and random vegetable bits. The broth wanders through flavors associated with mirepoix, brine and vinegar—not something that suits every palate and hardly elegant in presentation—but nonetheless distinct. But the crust comes out flabby, as if obesity held it back from flaking up into a light, memorable shell.

So be it. You don't find better in most pubs around England, really. These are plates to accompany pints of beer—filling and hearty, but not very sophisticated. Service bounds back and forth between jaded and amateurish. Tate has had problems staffing dependable, competent people in his past attempts. A bartender at his first Addison space duped customers by tacking a little extra to credit card bills until he was caught and deported. Other issues trailed the owner to his McKinney establishment. In this case, service falls generally into the straightforward, pleasant treatment category, fortunately.

Sara Kerens

Owner Barry Tate at home in his new Uptown digs

Location Info

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The Londoner Pub

2929 Thomas Ave.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

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The Londoner Pub

5454 Main St.
Frisco, TX 75034-3599

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Frisco

Details

Onion bhaji $6 Curry chips $5 English brisket $9 Fish and chips $12 Steak pasty $13 Chicken tikka masala $13

Web extra:More photos of The Londoner and its offerings in our slideshow.

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But for a pub, it's a reasonable dining experience. As a beer joint...well, the selection's not that grand. But the setting, with its step-up street patio and upstairs balcony, is difficult to top.

The Londoner 2909 Thomas Ave., 214-979-2333. Open daily 11 a.m.-2 p.m. $$