Maybe it was just a bad night. Our too-familiar waiter urged us to place the soufflé order at the same time as appetizers and entrees. It takes 20 minutes to bake, he explained. By putting in the request early, we'd avoid a lengthy delay.

Funny, we still waited a good quarter-hour—surrounded by splattered plates from the main course—for the dessert to come. This is the same waiter who, rather suspiciously, insisted every dish we pointed to was a popular favorite.

Kitchen veterans Jean-Marie Cadot (left) and Gaspar Stantic team up in a promising new kitchen.
Sara Kerens
Kitchen veterans Jean-Marie Cadot (left) and Gaspar Stantic team up in a promising new kitchen.

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Cadot

18111 Preston Road
Dallas, TX 75252

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Richardson & Vicinity

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Cadot Duck terrine $8 Yellowfin carpaccio $10 House-smoked salmon $10 Sauteed escargot $7.50 Trout $18.50 Potato-crusted salmon $18.50 Halibut $33 Flatiron steak $18 Grand Marnier soufflé $10

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Brand-new restaurants will suffer growing pains, of course—and these may continue for some time, as Stantic in particular adjusts the menu. They are planning additions to it in August (deleting dishes that haven't sold well). A tasting menu follows sometime after that. On its best days, though, Cadot can be almost thrilling. The escargot is memorable. They serve a yellowfin carpaccio that practically melts in your mouth, supported by equally supple rounds of foie gras. Drizzled with lemon juice and scattered chives, it is both simple and elegant. And that duck terrine...

A few visits suggest Cadot is headed in the right direction, poised to become one of the city's best mid-range restaurants. They may falter on occasion—badly so, in my experience. But it's worth it, for now, to ignore service mishaps, shrug off the odd bad night and bank on the best of both chefs.

Cadot 18111 Preston Road, 972-267-5700. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday. $$$
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