By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
A cutesy arrangement called picnic basket chicken was a pleasant rendition of an American summertime favorite: Potato salad rides on a tart edge, but with sweet and earthy components sparked by a sprinkling of pepper. Two fat biscuits glazed ever so slightly with sugar come with intensely swarthy ZIP code honey. And the meat itself turns out juicy and tender under savory skin—to which he recently added a few brush strokes of honey for a crispier sheen.
So, there were many "work in progress" moments as Park careened through its first month in operation. But Dallas doesn't seem to mind. The restaurant reports 400-plus covers on many nights and backups from the narrow drive to their valet stand spill out onto Henderson Avenue, causing more than a few angry gestures from drivers stalled in the traffic.
Despite a wave of pre-publicity and the excitement generated as word of his return rippled through the city, Dallas' prodigal son claims the onslaught of customers caught him off guard.
1921 Henderson Ave.
Dallas, TX 75206
Region: East Dallas & Lakewood
"We were not expecting the kind of volume we're doing," he says.
Not sure if I believe it. The name, the location, the casual theme and nods to local sourcing (they've set up beehives on the roof)—this place is destined for instant success and accolades. And those are beginning to roll in, even as they work out the kinks.
Simply put, Park—and its food service—is unpredictable, vibrant and a lot of fun. It's Marc Cassel's place, after all.Park 1921 Henderson Ave., 214-824-3343. Open 6-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 6-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 6-10 p.m. Sunday. Bar opens 5 p.m. $$$