By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
In this town, these are fightin' words, which he defends by serving steaks pan-seared with shallot and thyme and drizzled with butter as it cooks, a trick known as arosée in French culinary tradition. The technique creates a piece of beef so generous in flavor you never fall into a meat coma—that dull, heavy feeling of having gorged on too much beef. Instead, each bite is lively and rich, with subtle hints of herbs, salt, pepper and more. It's so close to perfection that the chef can't resist showing off, presenting the New York strip partially sliced to reveal a gorgeous black and brown strata ringing its rare magenta core. But this finishing touch allows juices to spill out onto the plate, essentially trading appearance for flavor. They offer a choice of sauces too, but think about staying away from them, or risk obscuring some of the steak's natural character.
It's definitely a great steak—and one that justifies the chef's braggadocio.
Dragonfly's appetizers seem somewhat clumsy, maybe even sophomoric, in comparison to such stunningly genteel entrees. The lamb chop lollipops are rather silly, though tender and served with a raspy horseradish dip. A starter of tuna maki "deconstructed" is a far too cute presentation in which some elements, such as crab ceviche, disappear under the sluggish weight of avocado and sushi rice. Tuna tacos? Subtle and interesting, with a trickle of peppery heat sneaking in at the last—but hardly worth the $14 price for three bite-sized snacks.
2332 Leonard St.
Dallas, TX 75201
Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn
Otherwise, the dynamic duo of Morgan and West has crafted something special: a seasonal menu of subtlety and depth, where even afterthoughts—like the pepper gnocchi served with their brilliant duck breast—contribute subdued yet unexpected pricks of flavor.
Dragonfly may leave you speechless. At most, you'll be able to mumble some sort of exclamation—a muffled "WOW!" perhaps; or a barely audible "Holy Escoffier, Batman." More likely, you'll want to return for more. Same Bat-time, same Bat-channel.
Sorry, Adam—couldn't resist.Dragonfly 2332 Leonard St. (inside Hotel ZaZa), 214-550-9500. Open 7 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. $$$-$$$$