In North Oak Cliff They Know You Can't Fight City Hall, But You Can Bike Around It

You heard it here first. Possibly. If you have already heard it somewhere else, please keep that to yourself. I want the credit.

North Oak Cliff is the new Austin.

Only better than Austin. Because the new community being created in Oak Cliff is for people who actually have jobs. And those people are creating the world around them. They are making it happen, not just showing up and going along for the ride. That's a big difference.

A very interesting class of 20-to-maybe-40-somethings is gathering in Oak Cliff, putting down roots as a sort of modified Bohemian community, but not really Bohemian. They often have partners, families, jobs. It's a phenomenon that doesn't quite have a name yet. For now, until someone cleverer comes up with a better name, let's call them Bikos. For whatever reason, bicycles are central to their worldview. Vegetable gardens are in there, too, but I don't want to call them Veggos.

These are not hippies. I know hippies. In the midst of these new people are lots of artists, of course, but many of them are lawyers and teachers and urban planners and such. They're both more worldly and in a way more idealistic than hippies—an idealism alloyed with direction.

Last week I rode around Oak Cliff with Mariana Griggs of Community Gardens of Oak Cliff, an umbrella group that oversees six community gardens. She is a teacher. Her husband, Scott, is a lawyer. I guessed she was a 20-something. She's 33, and her husband is 35. My fault. Everybody under 50 looks 15 to me. Only fair. I look 110 to them.

While we rode, she told me about a trip she and her husband took to Europe last August.

"We went to Copenhagen and Amsterdam for kind of a little bike reconnaissance project, to go check out their bike lanes and ride bikes.

"We just loved it. We didn't want to come back. We wanted to live there."

I asked, "How are they about bikes?"

"Oh, it's amazing," she said. "Everybody has a bicycle. Cars have to yield the right-of-way to bikes. It's easier to get places. It's a lot more flat. There's a lot of bike parking. It's what everybody's doing. If you know how to ride a bike already, you're going to do really well."

I said, "See, that's why you shouldn't go to places like that. It's that ride back from the airport that gets you..."

She finished my thought: "It really is. 'Oh, I have to come back here?' Miserable! But then you have to look at it again from a point of view where you say, 'Here, I have the chance to move everybody in that direction.'"

I sense the center of things in that last comment. It's not quite the same as the pleasure of living in a cool place. After all, by most objective measures, Oak Cliff isn't high on the cool scale yet. It's more the excitement of believing you are involved in the creation of a new cool place.

I got the same thing recently in a conversation with Jason Roberts, founder of Bike Friendly Oak Cliff and a subject of Kimberly Thorpe's Observer cover story, "Why Don't We Do It In The Road" (November 26). He talked to me about that same push and pull—visiting a wonderful place elsewhere, coming home to harsh reality, crashing, then discovering the excitement of making this place into one of those places.

North Oak Cliff—the old part of Oak Cliff—is not Old East Dallas all over again. It's quite different. In East Dallas, where I live, we believe we saved our world by fighting off redevelopment. I think this new cool Oak Cliff wants redevelopment. But Biko redevelopment. It's a less rigid place than East Dallas. In fact that was why I was there.

The previous week I had written about a brouhaha in East Dallas concerning efforts to create a community garden in a neighborhood near White Rock Lake. The homeowners in the area rose up in high dudgeon to smack down what they saw as a dangerous invasion of their turf by rough-riding elitist cultural Cossacks.

Gardeners? Cossacks? What does that tell you about East Dallas?

I can tell you what it tells you. Don't come to East Dallas talking about anything new unless you want to get a pointed board from a white picket fence driven through your heart. And guess what! Most of the time, I'm with the picket fencers. I guess I'm just a creature of my own culture.

I had written several times about the ridiculous hurdles people around the city face when they want to create community gardens. I was aware that several successful new gardens are under way in Oak Cliff, and I didn't want to leave the impression it's all hopeless.

So I found my way to Griggs. I asked her to show me the Oak Cliff gardens and tell me why the Oak Cliff gardens work, especially when people in the rest of the city are having so much trouble with City Hall.

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  • Walking-the-Walk 01/27/2010 9:51:00 AM

    All due respect, Jim, with your comparisons to Austin, but Austin wishes it was like OC. Let's cease the comparisons (Though I do understand them as a point of reference) and help everyone realize you can never differentiate yourself as a genuine personality if you're distracted by comparisons to others. NOC is not the new Austin. It is, in fact, NOC - the one and only. And by the way, NOC is the very essence of a mixed race, multi-culti, "bohemian-esque" district. You might see some hippies talking with black students. Skaters chillin with waiters. Cops palling around with musicians. There's a full array of Upper Crustaceans and working class families, Artists and artisans, bakers and barbers, teachers and students - all doing their best to make OC a better place than the day before. Thank you BFOC, OCBC, The Cube Creative, Cliff Walls, BAD, NOC, TDAD, MFA, All the restaurants, all the entrepreneurs, Make, BADMA, Griggs, Gardeners, and Paleta cyclists. YOU make OC diverse & fresh! I'm proud of the NOC Dwellers - Viva OC! Oh Si!!

  • Frank Thompson 01/26/2010 9:49:00 PM

    Sounds like this decades version of "Yuppies." Same old Dallas!

  • tlk 01/26/2010 9:27:00 PM

    I applaud any effort to get people out of cars, but otherwise this just sounds like another version of a middle-class, very white 'gated' community with little diversity. Hippies are good - don't slam the hippies! Or anyone else that makes a lower income. -tlk from a truly (not pseudo-) bohemian neighbourhood

  • Scottie 01/26/2010 7:20:00 PM

    When I moved to Dallas in the early 80s, Oak Cliff was "up and coming". It took a long time, but it finally seemed to have a foothold when we left Dallas four years ago (I still miss how good and inexpensive Hattie's is). Good to see that things continue to move in the right direction.

  • Anna Miranda 01/26/2010 1:30:00 AM

    All my life I've lived in Oak Cliff and people have made it seem like a horrible place and it really isn't! Its calm and laid back a great place to live...so thanks for writing something positive. p.s We are not at Austin status yet...

  • Hilda Navarro 01/25/2010 5:51:00 PM

    This was such a great article! It's nice to know that there are great parts of Oakcliff because I did not really think there were any! Mrs. Griggs was my Biology teacher at Richland College and she was such a great inspiration and a breath of fresh air. She taught us alot about just "life." I'm happy I ran into this article! GOOD LUCK MRS. GRIGGS!!!!!

  • Mugtoe 01/25/2010 2:26:00 PM

    The thing that'll ruin Oak Cliff quicker'n anything else is buzz about it. This insane need to be popular (read: "international city") that has afflicted Dallas for decades condemns the city to continually aim for the lowest common denominator. There will certainly be an American Apparel and an Urban Outfitters in Oak Cliff in five years at this rate, and life will be over here. I think Oak Cliff is a great place, even if its boosters can't convince anyone else of that. Are we hurtin that bad for traffic from across the river?

  • Marcie 01/24/2010 12:12:00 AM

    As a born and bread Cliff Dweller, I can say that I am so proud of the positive press the OC has been getting lately. It's been a long time coming, and the efforts of so many hard working individuals are finally paying off! Community Gardens, Bike Friendly Oak Cliff, Kessler Co-Op, Oak Cliff Earth Day, Bishop Arts District, etc etc etc are truly unique and refreshing and make me proud to claim my home in Oak Cliff. However, I sincerely hope that the term "bikos" does not catch on... yuck!

  • Aunt Stell's Snowcone 01/23/2010 9:21:00 PM

    It's really great that Scott Griggs isn't hampered by the technical rules and is using some common sense. It would have been swell of him to have such an outlook when he was on the board of adjustment. It's ok for him to deviate from city ordinances, but when someone else wanted to do so he was impossible.

  • lisa taylor 01/23/2010 5:39:00 PM

    That's why I love Oak Cliff. Thanks for revealing some of our great secrets. Come over more often!

  • Drew 01/22/2010 5:10:00 PM

    Great article! As a 28 yr old high school science teacher who's married to a high school art teacher, it's exciting to see such grassroots efforts to make our community a better place to live. We've owned our house for about a year and a half and so we have an investment (in our family, property, and otherwise) here in Oak Cliff. We chose to live near family, and my wife has lived here her entire life so there is that sense of heritage that we want to preserve. As someone who used to use his mountain bike as his sole method of transportation, it was frustrating to move to Dallas initially because it is such a car-dependent city and I would like to be more involved in Bike Friendly Oak Cliff (BFOC) to do more to change Oak Cliff in the right direction. The community gardens is also fascinating and will hopefully get more and more Oak Cliff residents the incentive to stay in Oak Cliff. I can totally understand and appreciate the hard-working ethic of our fellow neighbors and residents and our jobs alone run us into exhaustion so it is amazing to me to see such progress above and beyond our paid "day jobs." I am also extremely busy as a teacher, husband, home owner, etc...but if I can help in any way, sign me up.

  • 01/22/2010 4:04:00 PM

    Wow, Same Old Dallas. Take it easy!

  • Ed in the OC 01/22/2010 5:45:00 AM

    Jim, You heard it here first, �don�t try to brand us�. I am sure you meant no disrespect by trying to compare us to Austin, but candidly, you�re only scratching the surface. Come back when you can stay longer and get a �real� feel. Ed

  • Same old Dallas 01/22/2010 4:21:00 AM

    Dear Sleepypasture, Downtown interests and corrupt pay-to-play politicians will be along shortly to screw you over and send you packing for Plano or someother godforsaken place. Bide your time and watch history repeat. The people who run your town killed a president and got away with it. What makes you think they give a sh!t about anything? You're not a slave, so they want you dead too!

  • Sleepypasture 01/22/2010 1:07:00 AM

    Hooray for such a positive Oak Cliff article! As a 30-yr-old graphic designer (yes, I fit the demographic described in the article), I am very proud to say that I bought my very first house in 2008 in Oak Cliff, and I am so, so glad that I chose "OC" over every other Dallas area. We're accomplishing amazing things here, seemingly under the radar of the rest of Dallas. Of course, we have that "bridge and tunnel" crowd that crosses the river to come South for Sunday brunch at Bolsa or The Belmont, but snub their noses at the rest of Oak Cliff. (I am still always surprised when people express shock that I live here as a (*gasp!*) single female. They just aren't in on Dallas' best-kept secret yet.) Oak Cliff's residents (my neighbors) inspire me to become deeply involved in our neighborhood's organizations, working for the future WE want for South Dallas. We are very CAREFULLY and strategically growing Oak Cliff, fighting to implement Complete Streets (including bike lanes), start community gardens, bring back our trolleys, save our beloved historic buildings (do you hear me, DISD?), and supporting our small local businesses over large corporations, all to make Oak Cliff a livable area and to be a model for the rest of Dallas. I look forward to being here a long time and to do my part to make it all happen.

  • Jonathan 01/21/2010 10:02:00 PM

    Nice work! Not because I believe you're describing myself in so many words, but for Oak Cliff in general. This area is a nice place to live, as I can atest for over 3 years. I have my history in East Dallas, but I can call Oak Cliff home now. Also, because Oak Cliff finally deserves it's due. And not just north Oak Cliff, the entire section of Oak Cliff that encompasses area from I30 to I20, that is Oak Cliff too and we must remember not to neglect any of it!

  • Steve Turman 01/21/2010 9:38:00 PM

    God bless 'em.

  • Lena 01/21/2010 7:29:00 PM

    Jim, Thanks for the great article. Not just because I live in Oak Cliff and know how great Marianna Griggs is, but because you've written something really positive! I love that you did that.

  • Alfredo 01/21/2010 5:37:00 PM

    We have a winner, the Oak Cliff gardens are created on private land. Unlike the recent flap in East Dallas the organizer's in Oak Cliff didn't want city land. In East Dallas the organizer owns more than enough land herself for a community garden. on her property but she had to have city land. Moral if you want to start a community garden do it on private land, but if you want city land understand you are going to have to deal with city officials and maybe the neighbors concerns.

 

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