By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
"You want it dry?" my waitress asked, apparently surprised that I didn't specify a sauce. "You don't want masala?"
Well, tikka masala is more of a Western adaptation, so—no—I want chicken tikka from a restaurant promising real Indian fare.
Still, it's not all distressing. The restaurant concentrates on favorites from India's northern reaches, where food draws influence from Pakistan and—going way back—the Persians. The tikka comes alive thanks to the seasoned yogurt marinade, which seeps into cubes of white meat, lending it a creamy, earthy and tart character. The tamarind chutney they leave with papadum to start the meal rips at your senses in the best possible way. And while it's impossible to prove they used a real wok-style pan to prepare their lamb kadhai (as would be proper), the meat did ooze musty, gamey flavor. Meanwhile, the vegetables—thick slices of onion and bell pepper—lent a neat and fresh snap.
Good stuff here and there. On the whole, though, India West is just a more enticing name for Kebab N Kurry. But if you want the Richardson restaurant's cooking in a more handsome, upscale environment, you won't be disappointed.India West 5290 Belt Line Road, Addison, 972-503-5000. Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10:30 p.m. Friday, noon-3 p.m., 5-10:30 p.m. Saturday, noon-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$