As for the wild card (something I'd never order if I wasn't reviewing), I decided to give the basil tofu a whirl. Smart move. The dish was fresh, colorful and rife with red peppers, onions and baby bok choy.

Now things get really interesting: Their house pad Thai has no noodles. You heard me right. No noodles. It's served with rice (brown or white) and has masses of thin, curly carrots instead. Or, for the carb-phobic, you can have it sans the rice and just pretend the carrots are noodles, which is not hard to do since the texture and taste are actually delightful. I ordered it before noticing it was sans noodles. Who would have thought? So, I checked out the old-school noodle version too.

My tween (also in tow that night) had the first bite. "The pad Thai is magnificent," she said. I have never heard her use that word—even about Taylor Swift. Girl knows her noodles. Served with chicken and smoked tofu, the noodles were al dente and sticky with a rich, flavorful sauce. Good stuff. Definitely worth the visit.

Naga Thai rushes into Victory, where others fear to tread.
Sara Kerens
Naga Thai rushes into Victory, where others fear to tread.

Location Info

Map

Naga Thai Kitchen and Bar

665 High Market St.
Dallas, TX 75219

Category: Restaurant > Thai

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Details

Naga Thai Crab Rangoon $5 Crispy egg rolls $5 Tum tip fritter $5 Steamed dumpling $5 Naga fried rice $11 Massaman curry $11 Pad Thai $11 Naga pad Thai $15 Sweet chili sea bass $18

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Now for the bad news. The service is not stellar. We ordered a side of chopped peanuts that never came, our water glasses ran dry and no offer of another drink or of more tea was ever made. Weirdest of all, for dessert, we were offered three flavors of ice cream when, in fact, they offered four, as well as strawberry cheesecake and pecan pie (at a Thai restaurant, go figure). Oh, and there are no chopsticks (other than for serving pad Thai) and no knives. That's just weird.

Back to dessert. We opted for all four ice cream flavors. The generous portions arrived quickly in very contemporary square bowls. I really enjoyed the Thai tea ice cream. It wasn't nearly as sweet as Thai tea itself. The flavor was quite subtle and would make a perfect between-course palate cleanser.

The green tea ice cream, on the other hand, was a little too harsh. It reminded me of drinking green tea in Japan where the leaves are ground and the hot water is poured over them. No straining. It's just down the hatch! Interestingly, I'm told Naga Thai gets their green tea ice cream from a Japanese grocer.

The coconut ice cream was loaded with coconut and had chopped peanuts sprinkled on top. I kept trying to fish the coconut shavings out of my mouth, thinking I had eaten something I wasn't supposed to, or as my tween put it, "It would be better chunkless." The mango was light in color but had a bright, tropical taste, much like the real thing.

While Naga Thai's a comfortable place that's casual cool with interesting tastes and a variety of options, Victory itself is a ghost town for the most part. And even if you offer the best crispy egg rolls in town, you still might be nuts for frying up your noodles at Victory.

Naga Thai 665 High Market St. in Victory Park, 214-953-0023. Open for lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday. Open for dinner 5 to 9 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5-9 p.m. Sunday. $$-$$$
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