Desserts of panna cotti (flan-like custard drizzled with Grand Marnier) and a trio of sorbetto scoops were a fittingly light but sweet end to lunch. Fans of dessert will be glad to know that the restaurant serves meal portions proportioned so that most diners will have plenty of room left for a little something after the meal. The chocolate tiramisu is excellent, with a thin top layer of chocolate that provides a bit of resistance before giving way and allowing the spoon to easily penetrate deep into the lusciously soft layers of mascarpone and sponge cake.

One thing that hasn't changed since the move into fancier digs is the adherence to recipes from Sardinia along with the more-familiar Italian dishes. If you picture the Italian peninsula as a thigh-high boot, Sardinia is the large, roughly rectangular island about 120 miles west of the knee. It's considered a region of Italy and certainly shares culinary similarities with its neighbor, but also has its own distinct dishes. Many of them are available at Arcodoro & Pomodoro, such as pane carasau "guttiau" (crunchy "music bread," so named for its nearly paper-like thinness) suckling pig and panadeddas, which are fried ravioli pillows filled with pecorino cheese and wild boar meat.

The only real missteps are in the design department. The food usually looked just as good as it tasted, but the aesthetics of the restaurant itself (not to mention the Power Lunch menu's brush-stroke font, more fitting of a PTA newsletter than an upscale eatery menu) have more pastels than an entire season of Miami Vice. If the dining room must be brightly lit, does everything have to be white or some hue of pink—including the cheap-hotel worthy paintings? One object was allowed to break this color code, however: A giant, bright-red tomato (or pomodoro) that looks as if it was sculpted from tempura-painted papier-mâché takes up a good portion of a wall in the main dining room.

Arcodoro & Pomodoro’s seafood salad showcases the restaurant’s
Sardinian side.
Sara Kerens
Arcodoro & Pomodoro’s seafood salad showcases the restaurant’s Sardinian side.

Location Info

Map

Arcodoro & Pomodoro

100 Crescent Court, Ste. 140
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn

Details

Arcodoro & Pomodoro Calamari fritti $14 San Daniele grana e pere $13 Sea bass special $33 Gulurgiones de casu canne al vento $18 “Power Lunch” special $14.95 Tiramisu $9

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But aside from the boring pastel art and the wealthy oldsters it must soothe, Arcodoro & Pomodoro offers a thrilling take on Italian, and a welcome respite from heaping platefuls of mediocrity.

Arcodoro & Pomodoro 100 Crescent Court, Suite 140, 214-871-1924. www.arcodoro.com/Dallas. Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; open for dinner 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday; open for brunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. $$-$$$$
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