Screen Door: If Mama Cooked This Good, We'd A-Stayed Home

Comments (0) By Elaine Liner Thursday, Apr 29 2010

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Coconut cake comes in a wide, thin slice on an old-fashioned flowered-y china plate. We ask for the lemon sauce on the side. It's thick and super-sweet, like homemade lemonade reduced to a syrup, and would drown the cake in one drizzle. Instead, we fork up bites of the delicate cake, which is dotted with toasted pecans, and dip it into the jar of sauce a little at a time. Suddenly, angels sing. Little cartoon bluebirds land on our shoulders. It's a zippity-doo-dah moment.

With so many colors in the food, the designers of Screen Door have been wise to keep the decor muted. The dining room, with its creamy beige banquettes and iron tree-branch chandeliers, catches a golden glow as the sun sets behind the new architecture at the Performing Arts Center down the hill. (The restaurant features a pre-theater three-course dinner, which we also love.) It's a blessedly un-noisy place, too, with the volume of piped-in Aretha Franklin turned low enough to encourage and not challenge table conversation.

Sara Kerens

Munching coconut cake at Screen Door is the next best thing to heaven.

Location Info

Map

Screen Door

1722 Routh St., Ste. 132
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

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Details

Screen Door Oyster appetizer $14 Crawfish dip and Tabasco crackers $9 Fried green tomatoes $8 Grouper with red rice cake $28 Shrimp and grits $25 Lemon pudding souffle $8 Coconut cake $8

More About

But really, who needs to talk when there's food like this with so much to say?

Screen Door 1722 Routh St., One Arts Plaza, 214-720-9111. screendoordallas.com. Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; for dinner 5 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday and 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and for brunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. $$$