Not that this drink could have much helped the North Pacific black cod, perhaps the weakest entrant sampled. The fish was underdone and slightly gelatinous while the glaze, a formula composed of agave nectar, jalapeño and lime, is far too cloying.

We sample the chicken-fried venison loin, too. "Excellent, excellent choice," blurted our server in that grating sort of white-tablecloth formality that can bring out the pugilist in even the most uppity epicures. "It's chicken-fried style, country style. It was a special that people kept re-requesting."

And it is a damned hearty mess—an expensive mess at 34 bucks. A thick dimpled batter blankets a chewy seasoned piece of venison—a little tough—covered with cream gravy. The meat is gray with just a smattering of juices and a distinct livery, metallic gaminess on the finish. Jalapeño-cheddar smashed potatoes add to the cold-air temperament of the dish—very appealing overall.

We pretty much liked Preston’s, 
except for this, the black cod.
Sara Kerens
We pretty much liked Preston’s, except for this, the black cod.

Location Info

Map

Preston's

8411 Preston Road
Dallas, TX 75225

Category: Restaurant > Seafood

Region: Park Cities

Details

Prestonís Mac and cheese $6 Tomato mozzarella salad $9 Monster shrimp cocktail $12 Tortilla soup $6 Chicken-fried venison loin $34 Black cod $19 Beef short ribs $19 Prime rib sandwich $16

Foodstuff-wise, Preston's has a lot going for it, though some buffing around the edges would be fine. But the atmospherics need to catch up with the times. If there's a species of dining that needs sweetness and light with nary a hint of banker boorishness, it's the smart casual, pocketbook-conscious kind. Give us a dining room worthy of good mac and cheese. Please.

Preston’s 8411 Preston Road, 214-691-7763. prestonsdallas.com. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday. $$$
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