By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Not that this drink could have much helped the North Pacific black cod, perhaps the weakest entrant sampled. The fish was underdone and slightly gelatinous while the glaze, a formula composed of agave nectar, jalapeño and lime, is far too cloying.
We sample the chicken-fried venison loin, too. "Excellent, excellent choice," blurted our server in that grating sort of white-tablecloth formality that can bring out the pugilist in even the most uppity epicures. "It's chicken-fried style, country style. It was a special that people kept re-requesting."
And it is a damned hearty mess—an expensive mess at 34 bucks. A thick dimpled batter blankets a chewy seasoned piece of venison—a little tough—covered with cream gravy. The meat is gray with just a smattering of juices and a distinct livery, metallic gaminess on the finish. Jalapeño-cheddar smashed potatoes add to the cold-air temperament of the dish—very appealing overall.
Foodstuff-wise, Preston's has a lot going for it, though some buffing around the edges would be fine. But the atmospherics need to catch up with the times. If there's a species of dining that needs sweetness and light with nary a hint of banker boorishness, it's the smart casual, pocketbook-conscious kind. Give us a dining room worthy of good mac and cheese. Please.Prestons 8411 Preston Road, 214-691-7763. prestonsdallas.com. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday; open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday & Saturday. $$$