Meddlesome Moth: Great Beer, but the Food Doesn't Make Our Heart Flutter.

Comments (0) By Hanna Raskin Thursday, Jul 1 2010

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The standout on the small plate menu was a terrific boudin blanc, stuffed to the straining point with earthy pork bits and fluffy white rice. The presentation was a tad forlorn—just an albino sausage, laid out on a plate—but the robust flavor more than compensated for the aesthetics.

Disappointingly, The Moth struggles with brewpub classics that most roadhouses can execute passably. The burger was decent, but the fish and chips were depressing. The lackluster cod and taters were trimmed into identically sized oblongs and then fried to the same dull auburn hue. Perhaps the kitchen's caught up in the current anti-Brit frenzy, since the meat pie I tried also seemed to be made by a hostile hand. The rabbit pie wasn't a pie at all, but a big mug of under-salted rabbit and mustard green stew with a faintly Asian flavor, capped by a slim coaster of fried dough.

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Meddlesome Moth

1621 Oak Lawn Ave.
Dallas, TX 75207

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

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Meddlesome Moth Mussels $12 Rabbit meat pie $12 Cherry pie $6 Romaine salad $7 Burgundy pasture burger $12 Moth Balls $9.50 Zucchini chips $3 Fish and chips $12 Roasted beet salad $8.50 Point Judith squid $9.50 Seared sirloin spikes $8 Boudin blanc $8 Smoked arctic char $9.50

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If a deep bowl of food is what you're after, I'd recommend instead one of the excellent mussel preparations. I especially liked the Thai mussels, submerged in a curry gravy ripe with basil. The mussels are fresh, plump and properly steamed.

One of my dining companions who'd previously been to The Moth insisted we order a serving of zucchini chips to accompany the shellfish. Faced with the clump of greasy, nickel-sized slivers, he mused unhappily, "They were so much better last time" when he'd downed a few beers before placing his order. Meddlesome Moth apparently counts on a somewhat drunken dinership.

That's a fair assumption, since the fun of the restaurant—the gabby bar crowd, the stylish patio, the gently sophisticated soundtrack, the frenetic open kitchen—doesn't turn on the forgettable food. Meddlesome Moth is a great place to drink beer, and there's certainly no shame in that.

Meddlesome Moth 1621 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-628-7900. mothinthe.net. Open 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Thursday-Saturday. $$