By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Other dishes were made with lesser-quality product: A watery creamed spinach almondine seemed to have been made with frozen spinach. And a correctly cooked filet of flavorless beef was a chore to eat.
While many restaurants are now advertising their grass-fed beef, known for its kaleidoscopic flavors, Eddie V's menu proclaims "We proudly serve grain-fed beef." The fish end of the menu is similarly—and disturbingly—retro. Rather than serving any esoteric aquatic creatures, Eddie V's concentrates on overfished species including Gulf snapper and Chilean sea bass. Of course, there's tuna and salmon, the latter buried under a muck of herbs and bread crumbs.
The golden-crusted snapper stretched across the plate like a sunbather, surrounded by a thick, maple-colored onion stock. Since the menu described the preparation as a snapper meunière—rolled lightly in flour and sautéed in butter—I wasn't too sure what to make of the dark sauce. Perhaps a play on beurre meunière, or brown butter, the sweet, viscous sauce didn't belong with the delicate fish.
4023 Oak Lawn Ave.
Dallas, TX 75219
Region: Uptown & Oak Lawn
3100 W. 7th St.
Fort Worth, TX 76107
Region: Fort Worth
There are other creaky dishes—including a crab salad served with a browning avocado half, anointed with a Thousand Island-style dressing—and kitschy ones too. Eddie V's makes a few unbilled forays into tiki cuisine, resurrecting trampy Polynesian classics now rarely served in earnest.
There's a soy-soaked appetizer of salty scallops wrapped in salty bacon that recalls rumaki; paper-thin slices of beef served with a hot rock for tableside cooking and a gently fried rice dotted with limp sautéed mushrooms and gumball-sized hunks of moist crab meat. Fortunately, the rice is eminently eatable and far better than the misguided fried breakfast potatoes and undercooked asparagus also included on the list of sides. The best possible meal at Eddie V's would probably consist of rice and a grilled, unsauced fish—perhaps a species that doesn't appear on the "avoid" page of seafood consumer guides.
I asked my server why the restaurant persisted in serving Chilean sea bass, and was told the fish is no longer in trouble. That's a made-up answer: While there are a few well-managed stocks of Chilean sea bass, the server's pat response was plainly phony. Just like Eddie V's.Eddie Vs 4023 Oak Lawn Ave., 214-890-1500, www.eddiev.com. Open 5-11 p.m. Monday- Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday and 5-10 p.m. Sunday. $$$$