By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Go Fish's calamari is approachable, but unlikely to win over any eaters not already indoctrinated in squid's charms. The fried calamari nuggets—our server called them "center-cut"—look and taste too much like frozen fish sticks. Tossed with sautéed spinach and soaked in an overbearing sweet-and-sour sauce, the extravagantly portioned dish was oddly reminiscent of a mom-made school-night supper.
Fried red snapper seated atop a messy tomato stew of chorizo and spicy crawfish was no more subtle, but the cayenne-peppered concoction magically evoked the Gulf Coast. The snapper had a clean, crisp crust for which most chicken fryers would trade their grandmother's skillet, and the sprightly stew bespoke Cajun pride as eloquently as a Saints jersey.
I was equally fond of a poached Hawaiian escolar, a matzo-ball-looking hunk of fish flesh which might have outdone the snapper had it not been overcooked. Still, the escolar, bless its heart, did its best to transcend mistreatment, oozing a fabulous buttery flavor. The servers who steered me to the escolar made no mention of an accompanying succotash that turned out to be impeccable: The dish featured vivid corn niblets, shaggy morels and earthy asparagus, streaked with garlic and salted with prosciutto fat. It was a holdover from a spring menu that probably should have been shoved out with the season, but it was so perfect and unpretentious that I couldn't fault the kitchen for keeping it.
The succotash bore all the hallmarks of Derry's approach to cooking. I look forward to the day when a restaurant does too.
Go Fish Ocean Club 5301 Alpha Road, Suite 24, 972-980-1919, gofishoceanclub.com. Open 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 4-9 p.m. Monday-Wednesday and 4-10 p.m. Thursday-Saturday. Closed Sunday. $$$