By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Our hairy ancestors may not have understood this, but that's not a fail-safe proposition. The pizza I had at One2One was a sad affair with a floppy, white flour crust that buckled under a thick coating of rubbery cheese. Perhaps the pizzas topped with smoked shrimp and pesto or grilled chicken and caramelized onions—there are four varieties in all—come across as slightly swankier; the four-cheese pie tastes processed and dowdy.
There's a fair amount of economical repurposing on One2One's menu: There's a ginger beef entrée and an appetizer of ginger beef spring rolls. Since I had liked a starter of chopped pork sliders served on soft Hawaiian rolls, I was eager to try the ribs, which I assumed were the source for the sandwich meat. The ribs were excessively coated with an achingly sweet tomato-based sauce that even a vinegar-rich slaw couldn't cut. An accompanying side of fries was forgettable.
The stars of the turf section—prime rib and beef tenderloin—had an institutional flavor that jibed with their uninventive plating. A cool and chewy prime rib was joined by ivory-hued hash browns and a medley of undistinguished greens. The ginger-singed tenderloin, made mushy by too much marinating, came with a few limp tentacles of broccolini and a pile of potatoes whipped to the consistency of marshmallow cream.
One2One 1339 Legacy Drive, Frisco; 214-618-2221; one2onerestaurant.com. Open 11a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.-midnight Thursday-Friday and 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday. $$$
Wild game sausages $10 Pork sliders $10 Caesar salad $7 Arugula salad $9 Smoked chicken and corn soup $5 Four-cheese pizza $10 Prime rib $25 Beef tenderloin $30 Ribs $26 Halibut $30 Brownie sundae $7
A halibut was nicely cooked, although it was encrusted in salt. The fish, erected in a pool of cream and truffle oil, suffered primarily from undercooked garnishes: Raw purple onions eclipsed the mild halibut, while too-firm potatoes in a supporting corn hash posed a textural distraction.
Still, there are a good number of diners out there who just want meat and potatoes—and don't much care if said taters are too soft or too hard. I genuinely hope those eaters are very happy at One2One, and that Moschetti's happy to be giving them what they want.