By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
With a few days still remaining in December, it's probably too soon to accurately assess how 2010 will be recalled in the annals of Dallas food. And as someone who spent the first half of the year living in North Carolina, I'm surely not the obvious candidate to hold forth on what happened in Dallas County in February. But year-end summations are far too important in the culinary news biz to be derailed by such niggling considerations as perspective and expertise, so let's just press on.
It's no easy thing to classify 2010 as a good or bad year for the local food scene. Almost every event that riveted the food community this year could represent a stride forward or a minor setback, depending upon how you squint at it. Should we be heartened that so many charitable fund-raisers showcased ambitious cooking—or fret about overstretched chefs and diner fatigue? Is the proper response to the reopened Green Room a loud cheer for the folks who bothered to resurrect an icon or a head shake-and-hang at the futility of dwelling on the past?
Since I'd like to have it both ways (see above), I present here two different end-of-year lists, one for optimists and one for pessimists. If you're the sort of diner who thinks servers spit in your food and believes flavored foams are the greatest swindle ever perpetrated against the eating public—who pays for air, anyhow?—you'll want to cozy up with the restaurant closings and chef departures rehashed on the list of five reasons Dallas diners should brace for a lean year in 2011.
2323 N. Henderson Ave.
Dallas, TX 75206
Region: East Dallas & Lakewood
But if you're the sort of diner who tips more when your server neglects you, since she's obviously busy, bless her heart, and gladly tries every critter organ set before you, you'll want to skip straightaway to this year's shining edible moments, which provide five great reasons Dallas diners can look forward to an engaging, vibrant local food scene in 2011. I know I'm rooting for it.
The Pessimistic Dallas Eater's Take
1. Money was tight: Money may be the root of all evil, but the lack of it is the root of all troubles in the restaurant industry: Every other bullet point on this list can be tracked back to the flagging economy. Continued scrimping meant chefs citywide didn't have the resources or the confidence to experiment and innovate. Instead, independent restaurants aped corporate cost-cutting measures to keep their dining rooms afloat: Kitchens dispensed with local produce, while Horne & Dekker tried opening without an executive chef. Restaurants can't thrive when customers don't spend.
2. York Street closed: Food lovers who lamented the state of the local food movement in Dallas could always console themselves with York Street, a bastion of the highest-quality ingredients, creativity and elegant technique. Then chef Sharon Hage decided she was done. Citing personal reasons, she closed the restaurant this fall, denying Dallas diners their favorite example of locavorism and food without pretense.
3. Luxury took a nose-dive: Many diners adore Nosh, the moderately priced bistro Avner and Celeste Samuel opened this year. But nobody would mistake the clubby restaurant for its predecessor, Aurora, which for seven years dished out the kind of opulence that made Bear Sterns parties seem tasteful. Turned out, the Champagne cart, foie gras and truffles weren't a good match for a recession, so the Samuels closed Aurora. The number of Dallasites who could afford a dinner with a four-digit price tag is minuscule, of course, but the demise of glitz and glamour is a depressing indicator that dining's migrating from fun to functional.
4. A top chef got the boot: After the lifetime supplies of Buitoni pasta and Glad storage containers are exhausted, after the trips to Spain and New Zealand have been taken, former contestants on Top Chef can still lean on the love and adulation of their hometowns. Except in Dallas, where season seven fan favorite Tiffany Derry found herself out of a job when Go Fish Ocean Club closed suddenly. Derry wasn't the only celebrated chef who had trouble translating fame into fortune this year, but Dallas diners' apparent lack of interest in her cooking was a sad reflection of the community's feeble support for its culinary practitioners who've made good.
5. Theatergoers lost an after-show spot: Dali may not have been the most important restaurant in Dallas, but the 2-year-old One Arts Plaza wine bar—which served far better food than a Chardonnay drinker who glanced at the deceptively simple menu would ever expect—played an important part. In addition to providing the artsy set with crab cakes before and after operas and ballets, the restaurant helped assert the role of the culinary arts in the city's cultural life. Its position in the arts district proved eating and drinking matter as much to a city's intellectual vitality as paintings, sculptures and brilliantly designed buildings—until it shut down without warning.
The Optimistic Dallas Eater's Take
1. 48 Nights was an incredible success: There's nothing wrong with raising tens of thousands of dollars for charity, but the pop-up 48 Nights project wasn't just a fund-raiser. The guerrilla 30-seat restaurant in Oak Cliff, staffed by a rotating series of the city's biggest-name chefs, infused the Dallas dining scene with excitement, energy and a spirit of collaboration that's critical for a growing food community. The sold-out dinners were playful and brave and wonderful.