There's a pan-Asian spark to the vinegary sauce slathered on a pork rib appetizer, paired with a modestly sugary piccalilli. I only wish the well-balanced sauce was applied to something other than a failed attempt to reproduce barbecue without the proper equipment: Our server told us the pork was smoked for an hour in a countertop smoker and then finished in the oven, which would account for the ribs' chewy texture and flat flavor.

An Asian aesthetic prevails on a superb plate of beet hummus, framed by an array of radicchio, carrots and baby turnips that could front a Beatrix Potter book. There are wedges of toasted pumpernickel for swiping through the rich, smoky dip, but bread feels like an intrusion upon the perfectly composed produce wonderland. The hummus, whipped to a yogurt-like consistency, takes its cues from farther west than most hummus makers look for inspiration: The piquant spicing resounds with North African references.

Less exotic vegetable dishes fare almost as well. While the starring protein on every entrée plate I tried disappointed, the sides were fairly stellar—especially when they weren't buried in fat.

Brownstone's sea scallops disappointed. The veggies didn't.
Sara Kerens
Brownstone's sea scallops disappointed. The veggies didn't.

Location Info

Map

Brownstone Restaurant & Lounge

840 Currie St.
Fort Worth, TX 76107

Category: Restaurant >

Region: Fort Worth

Details

Brownstone 840 Currie St., Fort Worth, 817-332-1555, www.brownstonerestaurants.com. Open 5 p.m.-10 p.m Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-12 midnight Friday, 5 p.m.-midnight Saturday and 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$$
Squash “casserole” spread $11 Smoked beet hummus $9 Texas BBQ pork ribs $13 Fried Brussels sprouts $7 House salad $7 Roasted green beans $12 Sea scallops $24 Rock shrimp pasta $17 Chicken stuffed chicken $22 Flat-iron steak $22 Fried apple pie $7

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A bacon-cheddar-chive polenta tasted too much like the innards of brewpub potato skins, but lightly cheesed grits were very agreeable. And I'd probably nab a second helping of the creamed kale served with a flat-iron steak if somebody brought it to Thanksgiving dinner, though I'd be happier if he'd brought Brownstone's plain uncreamed kale instead. Fresh, local and seasonal—just like the slogan says—the snappy kale speaks to all that's right with this restaurant, no matter what the month.

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