I wish the pasta—sorry, "artisanal, hand-crafted pasta"—section of La Fiorentina's menu was longer. There are only two. I didn't try the tortelloni, but the taglioni, a tangle of subtly crimped noodles the width of a zipper, was pretty impeccable. The oiled taglioni was bedded down with meaty Manila clams and split cherry tomatoes, and dashed with flakes of parsley and crushed red pepper. I'd have happily eaten a much bigger bowl and was pleased to see the pasta reappear with a veal osso bucco.
The osso bucco itself was dry and as bereft in blunt meatiness as the marrow that preceded it. Same went for the lamb chops, which should have been gamier. Overcooking also afflicted a whole roasted branzino, which looked pretty on the plate but had little flavor beneath its crisp, silvery skin. The fish was served with clumsy potato tournes and a useless tuft of roasted leeks.
Sara Kerens
La Fiorentina's dining room is an Italian fantasy.
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La Fiorentina
4501 Cole Ave., 972-528-6170, www.lafiorentinadallas.com, 5 p.m.-9 p.m Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. $$$$
Crostini $8
Squash salad $13
Bone marrow $13
Tagliolini $23
Rib-eye $42
Osso bucco $38
Branzino $34
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Sadly, the vaunted steak suffered from the same problems as every other entrée. While the rib-eye I tried wasn't dry, it was cooked a shade past the requested medium rare, and lacked any discernible beef flavor.
Much of the plate, which included little molded potato cupcakes with rosette crowns and strewn Brussels sprout leaves splattered with butter, was taken up by the steak's bone. Its dimensions made the fat, wine-glazed steak look like a cartoonist's rendering of red meat. But there's nothing funny about paying $42 for a forgettable hunk of beef. I suspect very few guests leave the ostentatiously expensive La Fiorentina laughing.