I wish the pasta—sorry, "artisanal, hand-crafted pasta"—section of La Fiorentina's menu was longer. There are only two. I didn't try the tortelloni, but the taglioni, a tangle of subtly crimped noodles the width of a zipper, was pretty impeccable. The oiled taglioni was bedded down with meaty Manila clams and split cherry tomatoes, and dashed with flakes of parsley and crushed red pepper. I'd have happily eaten a much bigger bowl and was pleased to see the pasta reappear with a veal osso bucco.

The osso bucco itself was dry and as bereft in blunt meatiness as the marrow that preceded it. Same went for the lamb chops, which should have been gamier. Overcooking also afflicted a whole roasted branzino, which looked pretty on the plate but had little flavor beneath its crisp, silvery skin. The fish was served with clumsy potato tournes and a useless tuft of roasted leeks.

Sadly, the vaunted steak suffered from the same problems as every other entrée. While the rib-eye I tried wasn't dry, it was cooked a shade past the requested medium rare, and lacked any discernible beef flavor.

La Fiorentina's dining room is an Italian fantasy.
Sara Kerens
La Fiorentina's dining room is an Italian fantasy.

Location Info

Map

La Fiorentina

4501 Cole Ave.
Dallas, TX 75205

Category: Restaurant > Steakhouse

Region: Park Cities

Details

La Fiorentina 4501 Cole Ave., 972-528-6170, www.lafiorentinadallas.com, 5 p.m.-9 p.m Sunday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. $$$$

Crostini $8 Squash salad $13 Bone marrow $13 Tagliolini $23 Rib-eye $42 Osso bucco $38 Branzino $34

Much of the plate, which included little molded potato cupcakes with rosette crowns and strewn Brussels sprout leaves splattered with butter, was taken up by the steak's bone. Its dimensions made the fat, wine-glazed steak look like a cartoonist's rendering of red meat. But there's nothing funny about paying $42 for a forgettable hunk of beef. I suspect very few guests leave the ostentatiously expensive La Fiorentina laughing.

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4 comments
Chris
Chris

When I first moved to Dallas, I thought that the reviews would be enough to guide me in the right direction of where the best places to dine are. Sadly, I was in for a rude awakening, and I quickly learned that none of the reviews matched any of my experiences. Just like the weather in Texas, you should never go by the meteorologists report.

Huma
Huma

Hanna Raskin...... sounds like no pork would touch her fork, However, offered an opinion on 3 types of pork featured on their crostini plate. Interesting and inconsistant.

Frankrizzo
Frankrizzo

I agree Mike. How can someone who is paid to critique restaurants make such an ignorant comment. I don't think one can find a bone-in ribeye for 42 bucks, nevermind a porterhouse. Amazing with modern technology, that a mis-spelling could occur. Observer.....

Mikep
Mikep

Between the over critical Leslie Brenner and unknowledgeable Hanna Raskin, it's no wonder why no one in Dallas respects restaurant reviews. Good luck finding a porterhouse for less than $42 anywhere in Dallas. Even without the vegetable and potato that come with it. Unlike any steakhouse in Dallas, with the exception of Bob's. Being there are only two pastas on the menu, it should not have been to hard for Miss Raskin to simply copy the correct spelling of tagliolini. Oh, thought of a place where one can find a porterhouse for less than $42.......Outback Steakhouse. You can probably pick up the Observer there as well.

 
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