Clientele during our visits was a good mix of neighborhood residents, families with kids and after-work diners peeling off suit coats and pocketing iPhones to enjoy chats and drinks with friends on the patio. There were pretty young girls in short-shorts and cute guys in flip-flops. There were ladies in nice dresses and young parents enjoying date night. Even deep into the evening the atmosphere was casual, upbeat and blessedly absent the hipster-on-the-prowl vibe of so many other Henderson Avenue grazeries. "Relax, this table is yours for the evening," said our waiter as he removed our empty dessert plates. How strange not to feel the shove by a server to "flip" our four-top before we were really ready to leave. (His tip got bigger for that nice touch. We didn't overstay either.)
Even without reservations, there doesn't seem to be a long wait for tables here (yet). And besides, there are two bars, upstairs and down, that lessen the strain of a wait when it is a busy night. Alma's bartenders specialize in from-scratch cocktails, most starting with tequila or pisco, a Peruvian rum, in the $8 to $10 range. The wine list offers reds and whites from Spain, Portugal, Chile and Argentina, recent vintages, from $7 a glass for a 2010 Chilean chardonnay to bottles of Argentinian Brioso "Susana Balbo" Bordeaux blend (2006) for $93.
Sara Kerens
Almost everything about Alma is pleasing...except the tea.
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Alma
2822 N. Henderson Ave. 214-827-2820, www.almadallas.com. Open 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Wednesday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Thursday, 5 p.m.-midnight Friday and Saturday. $$$
Campechana (seafood cocktail) $14
Ceviche de hongos (vegan ceviche) $10
Enchilada de pollo $14
Tacos carne asada $18
Cochinita pibil (pork shank) $21
Goat cheese cheesecake $8
Chocoflan $9
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Now if they'd only add real iced tea to the menu. Really, Alma, that fruity, salad-y, watery beverage just has no soul.