By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
What might have been a yawningly predictable grilled chicken breast ($10) was rescued by the subtle heat from a layer of roasted green chiles. In addition, its accompanying salad of sprightly greens, lemon-spiked vinaigrette and goat cheese crumbles also perked up what could have been a too-conventional dish.
And then there was Clear Fork's way with the humble burger. Every aspect of the CFS Ranch Burger ($9) was sublimely turned out. The bun had a toasty edge, and the beefy burger (cooked to order with a hint of pink in its middle) was so succulent that it dribbled juice down a grateful diner's hands. Its adornments of candied bacon, cheddar cheese, red onion, lettuce and a hefty tomato slice were apt supporting players to the star burger. And the side of house-made chips weren't slackers either, as the honey-combed coins had a burnished skin that cracked with each bite.
Desserts tottered between sweet-satisfying and sweet-overkill. Buttermilk pie ($5.95) was pleasingly dense, but neither the buttermilk's slightly tart aftertaste nor the punch from the raspberry sauce could counterbalance the cake's aching sweetness. Meanwhile, the banana pudding ($5.95) achieved a very pleasing texture with its nubbins of banana lending it a bread-pudding consistency. Its swooshes of raspberry sauce brought a desired brightness to the overall sweet pudding flavor. The pudding's accompanying tortilla strips, dusted in cinnamon-sugar and sticking out like buoys on a banana-yellow bay, were just fun to munch on.
4971 E. Interstate 20 Service Road N.
Willow Park, TX 76087
Region: Weatherford/ Mineral Wells
Truth be told, Clear Fork Station is not the kind of "destination" restaurant for which one might set aside gas money and several hours for the 40-plus-mile drive from Dallas to Willow Park, but it's certainly very much worth a detour from the monotonous ribbon of highway where you may not run across something as authentically Texan, or nourishing, for miles to come.
Why do a review of a restaurant that far west of dowtown Fort Worth? I can understand an ocassional review of something in or around downtown Fort Worth. That's where most Dallasites will go if they totally have to spend some time in that craphole town. But lately every new restaurant in Fart Worth is a sloppy location of eateries already in Dallas. Then, after your review of this middle of nowhere dump, you say it's not "destination" worthy. Why bother??