The Commissary & The Table: No Standing O'

Chef John Tesar's new Arts District eatery misses its marks.

The rest of dinner—giant prawn with chorizo, gritty scallop with a tender bite of pork belly, tough bits of lobster in a red wine reduction—seems redundant and heavy. That crab casserole so early in the long meal was like hearing the show-stopping 11 o'clock number belted out before intermission at a musical.

The Commissary is a pre- or post-theater stop for drinks and burgers in the Arts District.
Sara Kerens
The Commissary is a pre- or post-theater stop for drinks and burgers in the Arts District.

Location Info

Map

The Commissary

1722 Routh St.
Dallas, TX 75201

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

Details

The Commissary & The Table Deviled eggs with caviar $14 Shaved artichoke and fennel heart salad $11 Skinny fries $3 West Coast burger “model style” $8 Cookie and ice cream $6 Six-course chef’s table meal (for one, without wine pairing) $75

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Our tablemates, two fun "foodie" couples in their 20s, are putting on their own show, starting their 12th course, having splurged on The Table's full menu, as we tuck into our last spoonfuls of chocolate hazelnut tart. (Diners also take home a sack of fresh marshmallow cookies and other goodies.) As we watch, astonished, the slim young man at the end of the table polishes off every morsel of "deconstructed beef Wellington" as if he hadn't just spent three previous hours eating everything we've had and five other entrées besides. We applaud his bravura eat-athon. "Thank you, thank you," he says. And he stands and takes a well-deserved bow.

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8 comments
Anna
Anna

Description of The Commissary in one word: pretentious. No, thank you. I will not return.

db
db

Had lunch there on Saturday - fries could have been better, but the burger and service were great - pleasant eating outside in the shade. The group next to me had a preparation issue even though their order was placed correctly.

Was the omission of Fedora as a neighboring restaurant intentional - I don’t think that they get enough props – every time I have been there it has been great.

Test
Test

Table was a great meal - 6 courses were excellent and the pairings of wine were over the top - highly recommend

jules
jules

What I found most disappointing about the Commisary was the service. The hostess had an air of superiority that was uncalled for at a burger joint, our meals were delievered as they were ready so some in the party were done eating before others were served, and several of the burgers were incredibly undercooked.

Matt
Matt

Glad a food blogger finally isn't kissing ass to this place. Thanks for the honesty, couldn't agree more.

Cookingfresh75
Cookingfresh75

Tahini seem's to be missing the bigger picture here. Picking about specks on this article is kinda like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic, the crash is still coming!!!

Tahini
Tahini

In parts of the English-speaking culinary world, the term "speck" refers to Italian speck, a type of prosciutto, rather than German speck, which is identical to the Italian "lardo." IE not "fatty bacon" on your commissary burger, more like smoked prosciutto.

Evan Ellington
Evan Ellington

I am fairly certain that I am said young man. Haha

 
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