Marquee Grill & Bar: Tre Wilcox's Starring Role

Former Top Chef contender aims to please both Bubbas and foodies.

The steak-frites plate includes a lusciously rare flat-iron steak served with a Shiner Bock reduction and tangy salsa, accompanied by spiced french fries. It's almost a legal requirement for a major Dallas restaurant to feature steaks, and all of the beef here, from the rib-eye with foie gras butter to the flat-iron cut, are sourced from Beeman Ranch near San Antonio. For the homey braised chicken thighs served with an upscale version of dirty rice, Wilcox mined his mother's old recipe, polishing it up with a caramelized exterior and napping the plate with delectable sherry-butter. Kudos to him for featuring the lowly chicken thigh as one of his signature dishes.

The grilled Bay of Fundy salmon with truffled potatoes sounded great—the world's most sustainable salmon, potatoes spiked with white truffle butter and shavings of black truffle imported from Italy. Unfortunately, the salmon was bland, and I couldn't detect the slightest taste of truffle in the gluey potatoes. Even a dish aimed at "the middle of the fairway" needs a more sure-handed presentation. Also less than impressive were the first-course salads, such as a limp Asian field greens salad, overwhelmed by a "lemongrass" dressing in which I couldn't taste the lemongrass.

Desserts play it a bit safe, such as the requisite molten chocolate cake with house-made dulce de leche ice cream, but just because a dish has become a cliché, doesn't mean it isn't outstanding. (It is). I usually edge away from banana desserts, but I'll make an exception for the Marquee's banana trifle, a petite stack of ladyfingers, mascarpone cream and chocolate siding with a little disc of caramelized banana on top.

Bubba food gets fancied up with chef Tre Wilcox's shrimp and grits.
Sara Kerens
Bubba food gets fancied up with chef Tre Wilcox's shrimp and grits.

Location Info

Map

Village Marquee - Texas Grill & Bar

33 Highland Park Village
Dallas, TX 75205

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Park Cities

Details

Marquee Grill & Bar Spring vegetable risotto $11 Marinated jumbo Texas shrimp & grits $12 ($14 at dinner) Beeman Ranch steak frites $24 ($33 at dinner) Spicy pulled pork sub $19 Maple Leaf Farms duck three ways $24 Lamb ravioli $15 Asian field green salad $12 Grilled Bay of Fundy salmon $27 Spice-rubbed chicken thighs $18 Dark chocolate coulant $9 Banana trifle $8 (at lunch)

The whole place is abuzz with energy day and late into the night. Men in suits stand at attention seemingly everywhere, ready to help with a drink order. Servers are friendly, knowledgeable and well trained. Drop a napkin and several people might race for the chance to pick it up. On one visit, a slightly botched salad order was comped for us: not necessary, but certainly endearing.

Whether you're blond or blue-haired, when the golden Highland Park sun is streaming through the front windows and Wilcox stops by your table to schmooze, you truly feel like you are in the epicenter of high-end Dallas. It doesn't matter much if you consider yourself a Bubba, a foodie or both, you've found a place to stop, eat and be seen by lots of people in elegant surroundings—almost like being in a movie. It's Tre Wilcox's starring role; for the price of a meal, you get a glamorous walk-on part.

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1 comments
Rachael
Rachael

Not all Kappas are blond. This post is clearly a reflection of discriminatory stereotyping at its finest. My chapter is 90% brunettes and all of my sisters are so incredibly different. How do people get away with generalizing like this in today's world?

 
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