Eggs Benedict aren't as wholesome, showcasing a fried instead of poached egg, shaved ham, and plenty of lemony hollandaise. That meat-sicle shouldn't fool your inner nutritionist either. Dubbed the breakfast kebob, the starter laces a bacon strip between chunks of smoked sausage, slathered with the same glaze that adorns Rosie's pork chop. The bacon exposed directly to heat is sweet and crisp, but sections sandwiched between sausage are rubbery and underdone. Erdlejac says he intentionally cooks them this way, for a play on textures, but it doesn't quite work unless you're a fan of flaccid bacon. Not like the Danger Dogs do. These small turkey sausages, dipped in pancake batter and deep-fried, get a light dusting of powdered sugar and chile powder. It sounds odd, but the sweet chile heat works.
During Sunday's brunch, the dining room hums and the chef cranks out dishes from the postage stamp of a kitchen, at what seems like full capacity. Sit at the bar and you'll see him, barely. The red-haired chef, topped in a black cap, stands, just tall enough to peek over the pass and into a dinning room that's bustling with a mix of customers.
Sara Kerens
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Jonathon’s Oak Cliff
Danger Dogs $6.50
Burger $10
Rosie’s Special $13
Chicken and waffles $10.50
Migas $9
Brunch kabob $7
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There are the young and hungover (hi, chef), hoping a heavy meal and a Bloody Mary, fashioned from a mix-your-own bar, will right the previous evening's excess. There's a family in the corner enjoying a Sunday meal with their kids. Older couples, too, one trying to concentrate on a newspaper at their table. It's urban diner meets country cooking in a gentrified hood, all of us served from a kitchen that's not even 200 square feet.
The kitchen's capacity will be tested soon. While the patio lies fallow in triple-digit heat, the 50 table settings will undoubtedly fill as soon as the mercury falls. The space effectively doubles potential demand for a kitchen that has no room to grow.
Most chefs are ambitious if anything, and Erdlejac claims he can handle the increased load. He's training extra cooks and honing his steel. He's keeping one eye on his menu and the other on those empty tables. He may be new to running his own show, but he's a veteran when it comes to pushing out plates in the weeds. He picked up those skills while working at Bread Winners and he brought them here, along with a lot of his old staff.
Jonathon's, of course, is far less than an institution. It's still too new. But with fair prices, a warm, memorable atmosphere and competent cooking, the young start-up stands a shot.