"Is that a squirrel?" That was the entrée into one of these conversations, launched from a few bar stools down. It was a reference to my sandwich, the Bye-Bye Birdie — a massive chicken breast encased in a thick greasy coat of deep-fried waffle batter. As far as chicken sandwiches go, this one comes up short, tasting of bland chicken and an oily waffle coating.
Most of the menu items here sport names that may test your patience. Order the Dippity Do if you want chips and salsa, and Cuddly Pigs if you want to try hot dogs wrapped in bread, a snack that features links from Rudolph's in Deep Ellum. Request Spuds Mackenzie if you want a mountain of waffle fries covered in queso, sour cream and jalapeño peppers. All these dishes pass as decent bar food.
Sara Kerens
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Goodfriend
Bye-Bye Birdie $8
Dippity Do $5
Cuddly Pigs $8
Spuds Mackenzie $7
Nacho Mamma $7
Lovin’ Cup $4
Burgers $8-$11.50
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Nacho Mamma invokes a sizable aluminum plate of small tortilla chips. The queso is floury and short on flavor, and braised pork is mushy, like soft, wet yarn. But a bright green chili flavor sent me hunting for more pork anyway.
Lovin' Cup produces a sizable bowl of meat, not unlike any other competent bowl of chili served in Texas. The kitchen tops it off with sour cream, cilantro and cheese, but they should serve it with hot sauce or a lime wedge as well. This stuff screams for acid.
Better are the burgers, which you'd expect to be passable at a place with "burger house" in its name. In fact, despite some dryness, they border on greatness.
Each sandwich comes on a white bun buttered inside and out and is served on aluminum quarter-sheet baking trays lined in parchment paper. The burgers come out as ordered more often than not; a request for rare produces a warm but almost raw center. Better to follow your server's suggestion and order yours medium — you'll enjoy a well-cooked, pink and flavorful burger that tastes simply of charred, high-quality Angus beef.
The Loretta Lynn is a showstopper. Topped with cave-aged blue cheese to recall the country singer's coal-mining roots, the burger features a sweet, bacon-laden onion jam.
P.L.O.T. comes with lettuce, onions, tomato and thick-sliced pickles. If you're a mustard person you'll enjoy this burger's most complementary condiment, and if you're not you should reconsider — the sharp yellow tang plays nicely off the crunchy, sweet cukes.
Longtime East Dallasites have a little gem in this modest local bar, where the old neighborhood gang can drink comfortably and where even a few Scorpions have returned to make an appearance or two. And it's just as appealing to the new guard, who've come in search of affordable urban living, a sanctuary from the exurbs and a little slice of Texas that feels like a little slice of somewhere else. For the newcomers and old-timers alike, there's something familiar in Goodfriend, which may not be a lifelong companion for everyone, but is certainly a worthy shoulder to lean on, at least until it's not.