Pools of melted cheese, surfboard-sized steaks, plates with color wheels that range from beige to French beige: These, for the most part, are the images that come to mind when considering Dallas dining circa 2000. Now, though? Legions of diners, each armed with a WordPress app at the ready and a DVR full of food TV, have begun to scrutinize flavors and ingredients with the discernment of pro eaters — or at least they can fake it. And chefs, both the old guard and an ambitious crop of newbies, are increasingly answering the call of culinary thrill seekers.
Allison V. Smith
David Uygur
Allison V. Smith
Katherine Clapner
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Are Dallas and its famously fickle diners still lagging behind their coastal contemporaries? Sure. But in the pages that follow, its chefs sound (mostly) bullish on the scene, encouraged by its evolution, by our collective palate, and by a slow, yet deliberate, trend toward small, chef-driven, neighborhood restaurants that just might save us from wafting away in the chain-restaurant doldrums.
The Go-Tos: Where do you eat when you eat out?
Katherine Clapner, 47, Dude, Sweet Chocolate: Lucia, because Dallas has had exceptionally shitty Italian for so long. So when they opened it was spectacular. El Jordan for a Mexican breakfast. Eno's, Oddfellows, Veracruz and Gloria's are all great also.
Kent Rathbun, 50, Abacus, Jasper's, Rathbun's Blue Plate Kitchen, KB's Woodfire Grill: Maple and Motor, Thai Noodle and Rice, Meso Maya, Nonna and Off the Bone Barbeque.
Stephan Pyles, 60, Stephan Pyles, Fuego, Samar: I like Dean's, Local, Nosh, Bolsa, Hattie's, Private | Social. I like to do brunch at Smoke and Parigi. I get my Indian fix at Sutra and Taj Chaat House. And I like anything that Katherine Clapner, Tim Byres and Matt McCallister are involved with.
Teiichi Sakurai, 46, Tei-An: I love Bruno [Davaillon] at the Mansion — it's not about the Mansion, but more about Bruno's food. I'm from Tokyo and we have a lot of French and Italian culture influence, and every time I go to the Mansion, which is only on special occasions, I feel like I'm in Paris. And Royal Thai is the same way. When I go there I feel like I'm in Bangkok. For American food I really like Smoke and John Tesar at The Commissary — John's palate balance is absolutely perfect.
Mike Smith, 47, The Common Table: Right now Frenando's, Neighborhood Services and One2One. For burgers the Dairy-ette on Ferguson. And a great off the beaten-path place is a Lebanese place called the Hookah Pipe.
David Uygur, 38, Lucia: For Japanese, Tei-An and Yutaka. For Vietnamese, Pho Pasteur in Richardson. For tacos, El Si Hay. We recently had a fantastic meal at Nana at the Anatole. For pizza, Il Cane Rosso. And for Thai, Bambu Thai. Smoke for pretty much whatever Tim's cooking that night. And Jimmy's Food Store for fantastic sandwiches.
Matt McCallister, 30, Campo Modern Country Bistro: I really don't go out much. I prefer to cook at home, and by that I mean ham sandwiches and some vegetables. I'm usually tired when I get home and I eat fairly healthy, but if I do venture out, I like Victor Tango's, First Chinese BBQ, Nana, Teppo, Vietnam, Pecan Lodge, Jimmy's for the Cuban and Afrah.
Dean Fearing, 56, Fearing's: Bugatti's on Northwest Highway is one of the greatest hidden Italian restaurants ever. And all the Asian places, like Kirin Court for Chinese in Richardson. I can taste their Peking duck right now. You want to start with dim sum, then order the Peking duck, which they do three ways. First they bring it out and show it to you, then serve the skin with pancakes, plum sauce and spring onions, which is to die for. Next you get the meat and that's absolutely delicious. Lastly, they take the bones and make a soup with vegetables. It's the best ever and you feel like you're in downtown Hong Kong.
John Tesar, 54, The Commissary: I love Royal Thai, Empire Szechuan and Teppo. I think Oak in the Design District is a fresh, new restaurant and Jason Maddy is a young chef with a great pedigree. And when I want a steak, I love Nick & Sam's; I just like everything about that place.
Jay Jerrier, 43, Il Cane Rosso: Maple and Motor, The Grape and Hibiscus for when we can plan ahead enough to make reservations. Same for Lucia. I had my 40th birthday dinner at Fearing's and that was amazing. We eat at Crossroads Diner at least once a week — best French toast and breakfast sausage. Jimmy's Food Store and Uncle Uber's for sandwiches. Pecan Lodge and Lockhart Smokehouse for barbecue. I love tacos, and [local taco blogger José] Maldonado will roll his eyes at my favorites for sure: Taco Joint, Torchy's (queso!), Velvet Taco, Rusty Taco, Taco Loco, even Tin Star. The Cowboys Cheese Steak at Cowboys Stadium! Why don't more people put queso on a cheesesteak?
Put a Fork in It: What restaurants and trends are you tired of?
Stephan Pyles: We do NOT need another steakhouse.
Kent Rathbun: We definitely need fewer chain restaurants.
Jay Jerrier: Instead of just putting up cold dark shells with metal studs and glass storefronts all over the place, how about rehabbing some of the spaces we have that are interesting? I think the organically grown projects will be more sustainable and successful in the long run. Less red tape in getting things done in the city would also be helpful.
