Thank Goodness It's Del Frisco's Grille

More easy bar food for the Uptown crowd.

Not quite. The burger is rich enough, but the patties are more than well-done. A thicker, single patty would surely improve what is potentially a stellar burger. For now, it's fancy fast food, complete with more of that melting synthetic cheese goo.

The mains steer the whole thing off course. Save those glorious steaks, the beef short-rib stroganoff and sole francese are your best bets. One heavy, one light, both satisfying enough.

Flatbreads come in roasted tomato, white clam, pulled chicken, and other varieties. If you're a fan of good pizza, steer clear of them all. The crust is surly and tastes of the burnt cornmeal that the cooks use to keep the dough from sticking to the floor of the gas-fired oven. I'm not sure the kitchen ever tried to perfect their rounds. They just needed pizza because, you know, what if someone feels like pizza?

Sara Kerens

Location Info

Map

Del Frisco's Grille

3232 McKinney Ave.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant > Breakfast

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

Del Frisco's Grille
Deviled eggs $7
Steak egg roll $10
14 oz New York strip $38
Shaved Prime steak $16
Burger $14
Beef stroganoff $30

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It's pandering, but in the end I'm not sure it will matter. The menu is clearly designed so anyone who pushes open the door can find something that excites them. A budding cougar watching her weight can pound skinny cocktails and eat a low-carb salad covered in sliced steak. Her prey can order a big and greasy number that will keep tomorrow's hangover at bay. And those who want to sit down with a knife and a fork can have that experience, too. The menu is upscale Applebee's, but the lighting and crowd distract from the mediocrity, and one way or any other, the place oozes fun the way those fritters ooze cheese.

The Grille is an offshoot of Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House, a North Dallas meat market built on big beef and big red wine. (Both the Grille and the Steak house offer a namesake cabernet; here it's $58 a bottle.) Since opening more than 20 years ago, eight additional locations of the steakhouse have sprouted across the country — Boston, Vegas, etc.

This is the Double Eagle's younger, drunker brother, and it's poised for similar expansion. The first opened in New York last summer; the Dallas location opened late in the year. Several waitresses and bartenders told me that more would open across the country. If they're in the right neighborhoods, they'll likely be very successful. Sure, they've concocted little more than a menu of half-elevated pedestrian fare in a space that commands a premium. But they've filled that space with customers more than willing to play along.

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9 comments
ObserverFan
ObserverFan

Overpriced Sam's Club plates? Velveeta stuffed pimento? This shit sounds disgusting. How'd that Budweiser pair with your $38 steak?

Chromeclone
Chromeclone

Sounds like every other restaurant that has more than a few locations (corporate). Designed for two things, consistency of food through non-scratch made items and to make money. If the love is not in the food or service, all they are after is your money. A lot of these chain restaurants don't have chefs, they have kitchen (production) managers.

JB
JB

In my admittedly limited experience, franchise casual dining restaurants are consistently mediocre, at best. Their menu is designed and the food is flavored to appeal to the broadest cross section of tastes. Although there are a couple of franchise restaurants I like, I most often go to locally owned establishments that serve food much more to my liking. It would appear that Del Frisco is indeed just another franchise chain with 'acceptable' food...

Bob orange
Bob orange

Check out the photo for your piece before writing "...bar was a sea of occupied stools, sharp-dressed drinkers..." Huh? I see at least ten guys dressed grocery-store casual, including jeans, t-shirt. Maybe the two females in the background were dressed cooler. Actually... was it a stag bar?

Scott Reitz
Scott Reitz

Writing came first. Photo came second. This is a shot of the upstairs bar, which is much less busy when this photo was taken than the downstairs bar likely was. Point taken, though.

Jon Daniel
Jon Daniel

You just described 75% of the restaurants in Uptown

Bob
Bob

The best way to check done-ness of meat without cutting? Check the firmness with a utensil. Every chef worth a damn should do this before it goes on your plate. Firm = medium or well done. Soft = medium rare. Gooey = rare

Steve
Steve

Upscale Applebee's, Scott? Really? That dig completely deflates your assessment.

Scott Reitz
Scott Reitz

It's not really a dig. Applebee's designs their menu in a certain way. They want to cater to EVERYONE. They want to make sure as many people as possible will come in and find something they like.

Del Frisco's Grille takes the same tack. They've designed a menu that casts a wide net. And they're getting ready to stamp it out in cities all over the country. Seems similar to me.

 
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