By Amy McCarthy
By Scott Reitz
By Scott Reitz
By Lauren Drewes Daniels
By Alice Laussade
By City of Ate
Some dishes are almost perfect. The cream of poblano soup is flavorful, heavy without being overwhelming and subtly warm at the back of your throat and all the way down into your center. Tortilla strips for garnish along with roasted corn sitting at the bottom of the bowl, however, are gummy when a crunchy snap could provide a perfect textural juxtaposition to the smooth puree.
Pastel Azteca layers corn tortillas with shreds of chicken, strings of melting cheese and a salsa verde as mild as a perfect spring day.
A queso fundido that's been on the menu since the beginning is offered with a choice of roasted poblano, mushrooms or chorizo. Opt for the first two and slather your tortillas with the pasilla salsa served on the side and tarted up with raw tomatillo, then indulge in the warm melted cheese. The corn tortillas are fresh and made on site, but the kitchen uses masa harina instead of freshly ground corn. Even though they're tender, the shortcut robs them of that fresh, roast corn flavor present in the best tortillas. The flour tortillas are purchased premade, as is the bottle of Cholula hot sauce that's brought to my table with the ceviche.
4152 Cole Ave. Suite 106, 214-252-0200, komalirestaurant.com. 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday. $$$
Cream of poblano $6
Queso fundido $12
Ceviche de pescado $14
Pastel Azteca $18
Filete almendrado $28
Komali is a more than attractive space that sends out beautiful looking plates. It has flashy $14 margaritas with spice and flare, and a competent, polite staff that's warm and helpful. It even has a dining room full of beautiful diners who've come to eat Mexican food that feels safe. Yet even though weekend specials occasionally include duck or beef tongue, those looking for an adventurous or authentic Mexican meal will find the food flimsy.
Sounds as if the chef is serving "authentic" generic Mexican. Unless I missed it, I didn't see anywhere in the article a mention of the region of Mexico that he's featuring. Authentic Mexican is as regionalized as Chinese and Italian.
Ceviche Tostados. Seafood Shack has awesome ceviche tostados. They are on sale cheap on Mondays. Nice way to begin a meal before finishing with a caldo.
What would the city health department say about a restaurant that has insects in its food on purpose? Beyond common ingredients such as lac and carmine, of course.