At Sakhuu, You're Welcomed

East Dallas' newest Thai restaurant is a neighborhood gem.

Comments (0) By Scott Reitz Thursday, Nov 29 2012

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The coconut milk employed in Phomsavanh's curries is the perfect foil for boozy brews as well. Each is based in a house-made paste the kitchen prepares ahead of time and freezes in batches. The difference between freshly made and store-bought pastes is night and day, and here it's even more apparent in a fresh green curry based in ginger, chiles and vegetables, or a rusty red Panang curry with dusky heat and the crisp citrus-like flavor of kaffir lime leaves.

Of course Bangkok Inn and other Asian BYOB restaurants have made this brilliant pairing possible for a long time in Dallas, but the cooking at Sakhuu carries a certain refinement that's often lacking elsewhere. Thankfully, Phomsavanh says his BYOB policy will remain intact, even after the restaurant is permitted to sell alcohol.

Catherine Downes

Blossoms in Sakhuu's back garden

Details

Sakhuu Thai Cuisine

4801 Bryan St., Suite 100, 214-828-9300,

sakhuu.com. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday. $$

Stuffed chicken wings $8

Fried egg rolls $4

Green papaya salad $8

Panang curry $10

Laab $10

Yum woon sen $10

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It's a nice gesture when considering they could soon be selling every drink on the tables here. Maybe that's part of why the dining room is such a fun place to be.

Or maybe it's the ingredients. Some of those chiles you've been lighting your face up with all night were grown in pots behind the restaurant. The garden isn't much to look at right now, but come spring it will be teeming with more peppers, herbs and other aromatics. The dry leaves of lemongrass already rustle in the wind, lightly scenting the air with citrus, and tender green onion shoots grow in comely rows. The scallions reach for the sun as quickly as they're trimmed and tossed into spicy stir fries: an endless supply of pungency, fueling what seems destined to become a neighborhood gem.