Long before Houston's Lower Westheimer was ground zero for hot new restaurants, there was Hugo's — the critical favorite from chef Hugo Ortega and his restaurateur wife Tracy Vaught. After their success with eternal brunch favorite Backstreet Cafe, Vaught and Ortega decided to take a shot at making the sort of interior Mexican food that Ortega and his brother Ruben, the pastry chef, had grown up eating in Mexico. The result was the best Mexican restaurant Houston had ever seen, a title that Hugo's still holds 11 years later. The humble Hugo Ortega's story of finally making it after crossing the Mexican border three separate times and working his way up from a dishwasher is the American dream personified.
Ninfa's on Navigation
2704 Navigation Blvd., Houston
713-228-1175
voiceplaces.com/ninfas-houston-2928773-l/
"Mama" Ninfa Laurenzo is popularly credited with inventing fajitas and inspiring an entire nation to embrace Tex-Mex food in the form of flat beef strips delivered on an iron comal so hot it's hilariously and wonderfully unsafe. And although other Tex-Mex restaurants picked up on and diluted Ninfa's fajitas over the decades (and although all of the other Ninfa's were sold off to franchisees), the original Ninfa's on Navigation still makes its fajitas the old-fashioned way — the right way, if you ask many die-hard Tex-Mex fans — with outside flank steak. Although the patio has been greatly expanded and modernized, inside you'll still find that familiar jangly maze of rooms and abuelitas making tortillas as you walk in the front door.
Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
5839 Westheimer, Houston
713-780-7352
voiceplaces.com/pappas-bros-steakhouse-houston-2379533-l/
"Any list of essential Texas restaurants must include at least one upscale steakhouse," says Edmund Tijerina, food critic at the San Antonio Express-News. And although he was referring to Bohanan's in San Antonio, Pappas Bros. Steakhouse rocketed to the top of our list with by far the most votes from our panel of food writers. This Houston-based steakhouse with possibly the best wine list in the state is the gold standard when it comes to high-end steakhouses, and although it's from a family that's made a business of exporting Houston concepts throughout the state (Pappadeaux, Pappasito's, Pappas Bar-B-Q and more), this clubby, ultra-plush steakhouse has only one other location — in Dallas.
Patillo's
2775 Washington Blvd., Beaumont
409-832-2572
Owing to its proximity to Louisiana, this Beaumont barbecue joint offers a geographically appropriate blend of East Texas-style barbecue and Cajun cuisine. Patillo's is also "one of the few barbecue joints left in Southeast Texas that hand-makes the classic East Texas 'juicy link,'" says freelance food writer J.C. Reid. Houston Chronicle food writer Syd Kearney calls it simply "East Texas barbecue and white bread" and defends Patillo's famous links, saying simply: "No bitching about the tough sausage casing. You should have to work for sausage this good."
Sartin's Seafood Restaurant
3520 Nederland Ave., Nederland
409-721-9420
Sure, Kim Sartin Tucker's restaurant sells food other than barbecued crabs. But that other stuff isn't why people make hours-long drives to this cutely shabby seafood shack in Nederland where the motto is: "We got the crabs." Sartin's is "home to one of the only native dishes of Southeast Texas," Reid says. "Barbecue crabs." And Kearney remarks that Sartin's is at its best when "you're digging into a huge plate of crabs, catfish, stuffed crabs and fried Gulf shrimp."
Tony's
3755 Richmond Ave., Houston
713-622-6778
voiceplaces.com/tonys-houston-2375822-l/
Tony Vallone has hosted everyone from exotic royalty and sitting heads of state to Tony Bennett and Oscar de la Renta since opening his namesake restaurant in 1965, and although Vallone's focus hasn't always been Italian, he was instrumental in elevating that cuisine to fine-dining status with a restaurant that's held its coveted "see-and-be-seen" status for decades. Today, Tony's is still widely recognized as one of the top — and correspondingly most expensive — restaurants in the state. "Not only is Tony's one of the best Italian restaurants in the U.S. today," said Mariani in 2011, "it's one of the best restaurants period."
Underbelly
1100 Westheimer Road, Houston
713-528-9800
voiceplaces.com/underbelly-houston-4539207-l/
Although it's still an infant by this list's standards, food writers across the state and the nation heralded chef Chris Shepherd's ambitious restaurant in Houston, which combines the city's tapestry of ethnic cuisines with an impressive array of locally produced, caught, raised or grown ingredients. Shepherd's unique and innovative menu bills itself as "The Story of Houston Food" and revels in remixing them in dishes such as Korean braised goat and dumplings, in a warm, casual setting that makes the open kitchen feel like a natural part of the wood-and-steel dining room.
Prairie & Lakes
Babe's Chicken Dinner House
104 N. Oak, Roanoke
817-491-2900
babeschicken.com/our-kitchens/roanoke/
As its name would suggest, chicken is Babe's signature dish. Babe herself — Mary Beth Vinyard — passed away in 2008, but husband Paul still runs the place they started in a 100-year-old warehouse in Roanoke two decades ago. People swear by Babe's original recipes for chicken-fried steak and fried chicken — and these are the only options at the original Roanoke location — although the restaurant chain is now equally famous for its Mamma Jo's roast (based on Paul's mother's recipe), the green chowchow that comes with its catfish and — believe it or not for a fried-chicken place — its vegetables.
I do not feel much pity for those in cities that have/cuisines that have already been well represented. If you re-search, I am sure you will find food in east and west Texas that also has deep roots and is delicious. Maybe do something on those areas in the future? Or small town food? Something, to make up for this representational oversight.
Go to perini ranch and you will be amazed! Incredible food / perfect sharing sizes! Incredible authentic flavors and great atmosphere! Their beef is incredible and this place makes one proud to call Texas home!
When I first moved to Dallas, I was constantly told to head over to Fort Worth for Joe T's.Β I finally went afterΒ being here for about two years, and boy was I disappointed.Β I've never seen a place so over-hyped.Β The food tasted as if it came outΒ of a supermarket freezer.Β Β Then after that, I found that every hyped place I tried in Fort Worth was the same, a major disappointment..Kincaids, Cattlemen's, Angelo's BBQ, and Reatta were all nothing special.Β No wonder the last time I was in Cow Pie, all the new restuarants are eitherΒ chains or Dallas area transplants.Β Fort Worth is a lousy restaurant town.
What......no chili on the list. I'm a D@# Yankee and I love me some Texas chili. My place of choice, Tolbert's in Grapevine. I take any fellow Yankee that visits to Tolbert's for a great bowl of red. I love to share the stories of Frank X and Terlinqua.Β
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Allow me to repost using the correct template as suggested below:
Dear Are you a Texan,
I am so ASTOUNDED that you didn't include TOLBERTS. TOLBERTS is by far the best CHILI/BOWL OF RED in the region (I'll refrain from saying the world since I have not yet had what the entire world has to offer as far as Texas chili). Β
Obviously you have never traveled to GRAPEVINE because you failed to include this establishment. Β If you had been there you would have enjoyed ORIGINAL BOWL OF RED, FRITO CHILI PIE and DONKEY TAILs prepared with LOVE & RESPECT to the original FRANK X TOLBERT.Β
@cbren30301Β You gotta read the follow-up articles. Tolbert's is one of the places that just missed the cut...
I live in Beaumont, and the Patillo's BBQ on 11th Street has been gone for a year and a half. Β It was torn down and replaced by a Jack in the Box.
How could you not include City Market in Luling?Β Better than Kreuz's or Smitty's and a real restaurant rather than a hobby like Franklins.
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Sorry if this is double-posted... I'm a little disappointed that South Texas (the coast and Valley) and pretty much overlooked.Β I would at the least add Kings Inn located in Rivera Beach, just south of Kingsville and on Baffin Bay.Β Family-style fried seafood (locally caught speckled trout, shrimp and oysters) and sides.Β True, its fried, but damn its good and steeped in tradition and history.
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@mcdallasΒ @douglas.davis I'll work on that.Β Thanks for your patience and kind words of encouragement.
@douglas.davisΒ @mcdallasΒ Well if there's one thing you'll consistently get here on the DO comment system, it's kind words and encouragement. Β You can count on that!
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I have serious problems with Cattleman's Steakhouse & Joe T. Garcia's being on this list.Β I've eaten at both, knowing about their reputation and renown, and was very disappointed.Β Cattleman's had some of the worst steaks I've ever had, and Joe T. Garcia's food is bland, uninteresting, and I always feel sick after eating there.
There are much better food choices in Fort Worth (Lonesome Dove, H3 Ranch) which are curiously absent from this list. Β
@Chubby_KidΒ I don't get down with Joe T's myself, but it is a quintessential Texas place. I think that's what the article was going for.
Excellent choices I agree. Β These top places show the wide personality of Texas cuisine from barbecue Texas style to finest dining establishments to Tex Mex to southwest cuisine to a STEAK. Β Come to Texas but bring your appetite when you do.
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The only one on this list worth the trip is Mi Tierra. I love that place.
And I am so ticked off that you didn't include THE BOILING POT in ROCKPORT, TEXAS.Β
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Here's a template for responding to this article:
Dear (insert cuss-word or other denigrating name),
I am so (insert word to cover your emotional state) that you didn't include (insert restaurant name here). Β (Repeat restaurant name) is by far the best (style of food) in the world/country/state/region/city (select one or more). Β
Obviously you have never traveled to city/county/region (select one or more) because you failed to include this establishment. Β If you had been there you would have enjoyed (signature dish/off-menu item/drink) prepared with (insert emotion) by the (insert adjective) chef/cook/food preparation/owner (pick one) expert, (insert name of chef/cook/food preparation/owner).
I'm never going to read one of these ridiculous lists, until you publish next year's list.
Without respect,
(your name here).
I have to ask if any of the contributors to this list have ever been east of Dallas? What about Stanley's Famous Pit BBQ in Tyler? Johnny Cace's in Longview? The Big Pines Lodge in Karnack? Country Tavern in Kilgore? These are all legendary places that have shaped the food and eating habits of our state.
When will you be doing the West Texas/RGV version of your list? Or am I to assume there are no restaurants there that are worth visiting? If you had actually tried, I'm certain you'd have found any one of 1,000 Mexican restaurants there that put El Fenix to shame.
When will you be doing the West Texas edition? Or am I to assume there are no restaurants in that part of the state worth visiting?
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@joneckbergΒ Good question! I answered it here: Β http://blogs.houstonpress.com/eating/2013/01/the_30_essential_texas_restaur_1.php
I am originally from Kentucky and our mexican is way better than El Fenix. Yuck, that place sucks!!
The article states "restaurants that define Texas" - El Fenix deserves a spot. Glad to see Houston getting big food props- it's a dynamite food town and has been for 25+ years. I credit a lot to the lax zoning laws.
I'm seriously disappointed that food writers though El Fenix should be on this list. If I was going to take someone visiting from out of town out for Tex Mex, it would NOT be to El Fenix.
I WILL say that speaking on seminal Texas restaurants, not the best restaurants, yes, El Fenix does deserve a place on there. Then again, so would places like Luna's, Sonny Bryan's and definitely Stubb's. Not only are those quintessential TX restaurants, they actually serve good food, unlike El Fenix.
I've been to most of these restaurants and can only give most of them an "eh" rating....and I agree with Kendall....El Fenix...barf.
Have been to six of those on the list. Of course, there are others that should be on the list.
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