Stampede 66's Bright Lights

If you want to show an out-of-towner Dallas, Stephan Pyles' latest will give you a show.

Those include the vegetables across the board, which seem to especially shine. Don't miss the riff on a caprese salad made with fried green tomatoes that warm and melt mozzarella cheese. A light cornmeal breading clings to the dense and tart tomatoes, which are tempered by a small drift of chowchow foam with a subtle sweetness.

Calabacitas and blossoms showcase squash from blossom to fruit in crispy, tempura-fried and casserole versions alongside a floral mousse.

A salad of pig ears is even more innovative. They're served with small spheres of green apples turned to lollipops, earthy chorizo and a tangle of arugula, and Pyles makes offal more approachable than any chef in Dallas, demonstrating why he's one of the most well known restaurateurs in the region.

Inside Stampede 66, Texas cliche reigns supreme.
Lori Bandi
Inside Stampede 66, Texas cliche reigns supreme.
Spicy ranchero beans and cornbread.
Lori Bandi
Spicy ranchero beans and cornbread.

Details

Stampede 66

1717 McKinney Ave., 214-550-6966, stampede66.com. 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 4 p.m.-midnight Monday-Friday, 4 p.m.-midnight Saturday. Closed Sunday. $$$

Sonofabitch $16

Tacos $4-$6

Fried green tomatoes $12

Popover $10

Venison meatloaf $18

Pyles can take trash cuts and turn them into something stunning and finds inspiration in a humble bag of Fritos heaped with Texas-style chili and slivers of fiery jalapeño. "Freeto-Chili Pie," the menu calls the creation, tucked into a custom bag stamped with the restaurant's name. This dish is as Texas as it gets, and Stampede 66 may be the perfect restaurant to define the Dallas dining scene right now. It seems over-the-top ridiculous that "Deep in the Heart of Texas" is playing when the plate of chili-drenched, house-fried corn chips descends on my table. I can't help myself and clap four times.

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4 comments
Admonkey
Admonkey

Star Canyon <--> Stampede 66.

Sotiredofitall
Sotiredofitall topcommenter

Have been twice and the menu is clever (bordering on overly clever in some cases) and for the most part food is excellently prepared.  However the deserts range from mediocre (Peanut Butter-Banana Cream Pie) to completely tricked up disasters (A pple Cobbler, Cranberry Crisp, Blackberry Buckle combo)   .  Why are more and more trendy restaurants incapable of executing a basic desert.  Have the same opinion of Oak.  

Sotiredofitall
Sotiredofitall topcommenter

Too much focus on cute presentation: Freeto-Chili Pie; flavor is just OK, texture is thin, price is $12 - Mable’s Buttermilk Biscuits; what are these tiny chewy things   Also: Sorghum Pork Belly, Coconut-Sweet Potato Flan; coconut??

 
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