Lori Bandi
John Tesar is off to a great start with Spoon.
Details
Spoon Bar and Kitchen
8220 Westchester Drive, 214-368-8220, spoonbarandkitchen.com. 5-10 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Monday. $$$$
Half-dozen seasonal oysters $19
Tuna carpaccio $24
Diver scallop $13
Cuttlefish pasta $32
Dessert $12
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The way he describes it, Spoon is the first Dallas project Tesar can really call his own. While his rise at The Mansion was marked by a celebrated five-star review, his fall was marred by disagreements with hotel managers and owners, and his time at The Commissary in the Arts District was hampered by a quirky concept that tried to straddle burgers (oh, the burgers) and fine dining.
At Spoon, the chef started with a blank slate, a mostly silent partner and an open shell of a restaurant. The victories and blunders are his alone to celebrate and correct. Tesar seems at home here, and beauty and the potential for greatness simmer in his kitchen.