Urbano Café Travels the Globe

Bolognese next to pork belly with pickled mustard greens? Somehow, it works.

Duck on an acorn squash puree seems standard, but a hearts of palm slaw cut into long thin strands instead of the coins you're used to keeps the dish fresh. The duck breast arrives in perfectly cooked, ruby-red medallions eclipsed by a crescent moon of white fat. No wonder everyone in both of these dining rooms is wearing a smile.

Catherine Downes
Catherine Downes


Urbano Café

1410 North Fitzhugh Ave., 214-823-8550, urbanodallas.com. Open 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, $$$

Hawaiian ceviche $9

Wagyu meatballs $11

1410 Salad $8

Farro crab salad $10

Seared duck breast $24

Veal Bolognese $19

Urbano Café is BYOB, and if you like to splurge on nice bottles of wine, this is a good place to be. The all-encompassing menu might make pairing a little difficult, but is worth the effort. Despite this restaurant's being open for some time, the dining room is still often mobbed. Weekend diners should make reservations.

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