Slow Bone's Bravado

Jack Perkins made some bold claims when he first opened his barbecue restaurant. He's almost backed them up.

There is room for improvement still. Some of Perkins' briskets are egregiously fatty, with a cap that's much too thick for the well-smoked meat beneath. The texture of that fat is perfect, though. It's soft and melts in the mouth with little more resistance than butter. Perhaps that thick blanket is the reason Perkins' lean brisket boasts so much moisture. While lean is often synonymous with dry at most barbecue restaurants, it's quite decadent here.

And indulgent cooking carries through an endless array of side dishes. There are mustard greens studded with plenty of bacon and a sweet-potato casserole capped with brown sugar and pecans that eats like dessert. There's macaroni and cheese with soft squishy noodles and plenty of dairy, and a Brussels sprouts casserole loaded with even more cheese. There are hushpuppies, cornbread, salads and a tangy sauce that boasts plenty of heat.

If you prefer pork to beef, you have plenty of options. Ribs are cooked perfectly one day, but a little tough the next. A pork loin is stuffed with more pork and wrapped in caul fat before it's smoked. The membrane of fat keeps the meat impossibly moist. A number of sausages from Hudson Meats in Austin are available, including an Old World style that's coarse and spicy, a smooth jalapeño sausage, and a pork and cilantro sausage that's loose and crumbly. But the brisket is the meat that all Texas barbecue restaurants are measured by.

Jack Perkins and Miss Jessie the smoker aren't daunted by the cult of barbecue.
Catherine Downes
Jack Perkins and Miss Jessie the smoker aren't daunted by the cult of barbecue.

Location Info

Map

The Slow Bone Barbecue

2234 Irving Blvd.
Dallas, TX 75207

Category: Restaurant > Barbecue

Region: Downtown & Deep Ellum

Details

The Slow Bone

2234 Irving Blvd., 214-377-7727. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily. $$

One-meat platter $12.99

Two-meat platter $13.99

Three-meat platter $14.99

Half-pound sandwich $6.99

Vegetable platter $9.99

Perkins admits he's learned much since he started. "The brisket we served after three weeks was better than the brisket we served when we opened," he says. And the brisket he served a few weeks later was better again. "We've served bad brisket too," he admits, though he quickly hedges. "Now I think we're making as good a brisket as you can get in a 190-mile radius," he says, noting the distance to Austin where some say the best brisket in the world is served.

"I'm not even going to try and compete with Aaron Franklin — yet," Perkins says, as confident as he was the day he started. "I'll let you know when I feel like I'm there."

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15 comments
gabe
gabe

Recently ate at Slow Bone, it is my new favorite, great flavor and smoke ring in brisket, great ribs.

ColoradoShu
ColoradoShu

If Webster's had an entry for "Roaring, Half-Cocked Douche Bag" ... Jack Perkins' picture would set along side it. Never been treated so rudely in my life by a restaurateur. Would sooner eat cockroaches 'n ketchup on a shingle than revisit this madhouse.

casiepierce
casiepierce

Where is kergo1spaceship?!?!? 


Ah, I'll go ahead and ask in his place: how's the terlets in this place?

ItzallGood
ItzallGood

I went there for lunch today.  Missed the big lunch crowd and got in & out in about 30 minutes.  This place rocks!  I'll definitely go back again.  Want to try everything on the menu!

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

On most any day, Jack's brisket is every bit as good as Pecan Lodge. And on the rare day it isn't, It's still a hundred times better than any other Dallas BBQ. A delicious new item at Slow Bone (Friday only) is tender, melt in your mouth ham sliced from a whole bone-in slow smoked ham. The sides are excellent. As are the corn bread and hushpuppies. Jack told me he doesn't believe in sliced white bread. And be sure to try the home made pickles at the condiment station. But the best thing is, there are no ridiculously long lines of sheeple. 

samcuefan
samcuefan

Isn't this place within 190 miles of Pecan Lodge?  If so, hard for Jack to back his claim that his machine makes brisket as good as anything you can find within 190 miles.  Will be interesting to see if Jack and his machine can seduce the hardcore cue lovers who know they are not just buying the meat when they drive 300 miles to try the magic of hand-made cue.  They want to buy the lore and myth.  It's part of the fun, and cue fans want fun and legend, not just product.

James080
James080

I had lunch at Slow Bones last week. My brisket and ribs were outstanding. They also had an interesting BBQ sauce which I tasted but didn't use because the meat was very moist and smoked just right. The brisket had a nice smoke ring and tasty crust that not many cooks can achieve. There was also a full relish bar for all the extras. Definitely headed back.

Greg820
Greg820

@Twinwillow I have lived in Dallas all my life and have never, ever understood the almost religous requirement to serve bland white sandwich bread with brisket.  It has no taste and doesn't do a decent job of soaking up the juices, either.  Kudos to Jack for getting off that bandwagon.  Hey and thanks for the heads-up on the ham.  I may have to take a long lunch one Friday. 

scott.reitz
scott.reitz moderator

@Kelly Tomlinson I can't find the article you're referencing, so I don't know how many times Kennedy ate at the Bone. I can say I've certainly had something close to 'C' brisket here, but more often than not it was significantly better.

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

@Greg820 @Twinwillow Greg, I called Jack this morning and he told me he would not have  ham until NEXT Friday. Apparently, he did not receive the hams in time to start the lengthy brining process needed before they slow smoke them.

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

@Greg820 @Twinwillow Greg, I'd call first to see if it's on. Although, I ran into Jack Wednesday at Petco of all places, and he told me it would be on Friday. I'll be there too.

Twinwillow
Twinwillow

@scott.reitz The only time i've had 'C' brisket at Slow Bone was right after they opened. I asked for "moist" brisket and got a plateful of fat with lots of (delicious) bark but, very little meat. Things have changed quite a bit since then.

scott.reitz
scott.reitz moderator

@Twinwillow @scott.reitz I always asked for a little of both. You should try the lean there. It's just as moist as the... moist.

As for my 'C' experiences one visit produced super fatty brisket, and another produced brisket with an acrid bark.


 
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