Village Kitchen, the Land of Nostalgia and a Great Sloppy Burger

The burger is wonderfully messy -- but not all the messiness is so welcome.

A flat-iron steak is cooked perfectly and capped in a coin of compound butter that slowly recedes into a glistening sheen. The steak is good enough to almost forgive yet another appearance of those lifeless french fries.

A flatbread topped with brisket and thick disks of mozzarella might sound heavy, but it's balanced with pickled vegetables that brighten things up. The crust is heavily charred — in a good way, just like the outer crust on that Slumpy Burger. The blackened bits add flavor and aroma and demonstrate a kitchen that knows how to properly burn things.

Choose some of these, and wash them down with a milkshake laced with salted caramel, and you might think you've found your perfect casual restaurant. Fish and chips with mushy cod and tepid onion soup will leave you less enamored, as will deviled eggs made from eggs that were boiled into oblivion. Their green, sulphurous yolks may be masked with bacon fat, but tough whites show a kitchen that lacks discipline. Most home cooks have this one mastered.

A sloppy burger and the brownie sundae are two of the better ways to pack on the pounds at Village Kitchen.
Catherine Downes
A sloppy burger and the brownie sundae are two of the better ways to pack on the pounds at Village Kitchen.
Catherine Downes

Details

Village Kitchen

33 Highland Park Village, 214-522-6035, hpvillagekitchen.com. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday, 10:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday. $$$

Chips and dip $8

Steak frites $22

VK Burger $15

Brisket flatbread $13

Brownie sundae $8

Milkshake $5

Still, something about Natera's newest menu has an undeniable pull, and it's certainly the most charming version of the restaurant so far. It's comforting when you see classic favorites served in a dining room that doesn't smell like a chicken-fried steak. It's the sort of place where you'll finish a brownie sundae even when you know you shouldn't.

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3 comments
Steve
Steve

Pretty gay opening sentence there, Scott.

Myrna.Minkoff-Katz
Myrna.Minkoff-Katz topcommenter

What happened to Natera?  Just a couple of years ago he was lauded as one of Dallas' rising stars.

AdamsonScott
AdamsonScott

@Steve Why - because you heteros don't use spoons to eat your dessert?

 
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