In Uptown, The Rustic Tries to Go Rural, and Almost Nails It

This ain't your average city bar

Desserts are another letdown. A slice of peanut butter pie eats like an entire jar of peanut butter whipped with a pound of confectioners sugar, and a chocolate silk pie will leave you with an ache deep in your jaw. Stick with the Key lime pie, which is thankfully tart and surprisingly good.

If you live for country music you'll enjoy the bands, but it's a bummer when the garage doors that conceal the stage roll up to reveal a country cover act that's no better than the ones you suffered through your freshman year. It's even more of a drag when they play so loud you'll have to wait till after dinner to talk with the person sitting just across the table from you.

Still, the Rustic is appealing for many as evidenced by the 20 or more drinkers who always huddle around the horseshoe bar. The dining room is packed more often than not, too, with waits for a table creeping past an hour on the weekends. Plan on standing around with a beer while you wait for your spot. Wear your most comfortable boots.

The Rustic's chorizo empanadas.
Catherine Downes
The Rustic's chorizo empanadas.

Location Info

Map

The Rustic

3656 Howell St.
Dallas, TX 75204

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: East Dallas & Lakewood

Details

The Rustic

3656 Howell St., 214-730-0596, therusticrestaurant.com. 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m-2 a.m. Friday-Saturday. $$$

Chorizo empanadas $7.95

Wild boar meatballs $8.95

Texas quail $14.95

Skirt steak $15.95

Key lime pie $7.95

It's easy to think the Texas shtick has been taken too far, but many customers aren't just hanging out, they're mouthing words along with the band, moving in their seats to the music while wiping deviled egg from their lips, lack of dance floor be damned. Faux country or not, when the kitchen nails it, the food is undeniably good. And while The Rustic may not appeal to the real cowboys, the locals are buying in, all the way down to the last calf's testicle.

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